Splitfire Coils

[skylinecouple]

Hey Guys and Girls,

Thinking about taking up Slides offer on the coils but out of curiosity, did anybody feel a noticable difference after installing them? OK, I know if your coils are cracked, der !, there will be a difference. My coils are perfect though, so I would like to hear about better fuel economy or smoother, better power.Perhaps even 1.1mm gap without misfires.

Just curious

[Cubes]

If your coils are fine.. There will be no difference.

The split fires.. You will still have to drop your gap as you have to with a set of good nissan coils.

[AlexCim]

You know why splitfires are bought by people with crapped out coils?

Go ring Nissan and find out how much Genuine coilpacks are

The dont do squat compared to a good set of standards...

[jazza08]

I had blow outs on high boost with standard coils, spitfires allowed me to run whatever boost i wanted... but im sure new nissan coils would of been able to do it too?

[Cubes]

Thats because your old coils were nackered.

[skylinecouple]

OK. Sounds like no noticable difference then.Perhaps some sort of spark enhancement that would allow 1.1mm gap and better fuel economy at 17lbs boost ?

[jazza08]

well duh, but they still ran standard turbo fine and as i said im sure new one's wud of been ok hehe

[Cubes]

You had a question mark after the im sure new ones would have been ok.

--------

Better fuel economy..

Mine manages around 10.6-11L/100km's with a 0.8mm gapped copper ngk.

Give it constant stick and this rises to ~13-13.5l/100.

[jazza08]

Well i have no proof that nissan coils wud of sustained 20psi + 300hp as i didnt use new nissan coils so yer??

[skylinecouple]

Surely splitfires must have more kick in them than standard.

[Cubes]

lol Jazza.. There you go with your question marks again. haha

The datalogit forums suggest otherwise.

A few of the blokes on there with higher powered 500awkw+ GTR's have had ignition break down issues with the splitfires. They drop the genuine coils back in and the break down disappears.

However, it was suggested the cause of the ignition issue was the splitfires requiring a different ign dwell vs rpm time. Some of them were able to work around it, others just went with genuine.

I believe something similar was also mentioned on the UK Skyline forum.

[skylinecouple]

I also seem to recall a thread on here somewhere about the subject and nobody actually tested one to see if it does what they say it should.

[Cubes]

Here's a post I dug up quickly on the datalogit forums.

Hi people. after doing a search for info on dwell settings with the

PFC I came up with almost a big fat zero.

At work we have a Bosch FSA Scope so I decided to do my own testing

after researching what I should be measuring on various helpful

internet sites.

Here are the initial results:

Vehicle > Skyline GTR with Splitfire Coils and Standard ignitor pack

and NGK iridium plugs gapped at 0.8mm.

Scope measuring ECU dwell signal to ignitor and an amps clamp around

number 1 coil negative measuring current ramp up time.

Suffers obvious misfire at over 17psi boost at 290RWKW hence my

research into this area

Suspect not running quite right at 15psi boost 270RWKW but can live

with it.

At idle held at 1000rpm:

PFC Dwell Setting Measured ramp time

Original 15 2.3ms

16 2.6ms

17 2.8ms

18 3.1ms

20 3.3ms

22 3.5ms

and so on.

The setup on my car fully saturates the coil at 2.3ms after which

the current ramp flatlines.

What happened next was very interesting.......

at 2000, 3000, 4000 and 8000 the dwell settings only allowed the

coil about 1.9 to 2 ms of charge time, obviously not enough with the

coil ramp up current still increasing as the coil fired.

I ended up with my 8000 rpm setting going from the original 86

giving 2ms up to 100 giving a 2.3ms and a fully charged coil.

YAY!!!!

As you can see the effect of the dwell setting is not a linear

increase across different rpm settings on the measured dwell time.

ie: each setting really needs to be set using the scope with your

specific application!!!!

So all those misfiring skylines out there, I wonder how many could

do with a DWELL TIME TUNE UP, assuming that they actually can as not

all would have PFC AND the FC Datalogit software. I believe the

hand controller offers no such adjustment is that right ... ??

So,

what does this mean in the real world of dyno testing and

drivibility? All I can say at the mo' is that the car felt much

sharper in the throttle response on the way home tonight, but it was

raining

Dyno testing is scheduled for Friday so I will carry out some

careful testing at 15, 16 and 17psi breaks with full comparo's with

my past runs with original dwell settings and post them up.

For all I know it could be the cause of my last post re: the RPM

sawtooth effect over 6000rpm on my charts.

stay tuned

Mike

lol more reading in the same thread came across this.. maybe he has other issues.

Further to the saw tooth pattern problem I described earlier I found some info on the EFI101 forum site regarding measurement of engine misfire by looking at the acel and decell events of the crankshaft sensor signal in relation cylinder compression and firing on late model EFI engines. Systems with multiple crank trigger points, say at least per cylinder or even more, can provide the ECU with enough info to detect an irregular acel/decel event due to a misfire and then log a code accordingly... very clever.

What I may be seeing with this sawtooth pattern over 6000rpm is in fact a misfire as the CAS speeds up then slows down irratically ( as stated earlier by a forum member here ) this reinforces the fact that my dwell time has been inadequate to fully charge my coils. Interestingly enough the car "feels" fine at 15psi but still shows the sawtooth pattern over 6000rpm yet at 17 psi it turns to custard big time.

Time will tell.....

Cheers,

Mike

and some one replied with..

What happens if you swap to standard coils ? I had a similar problem

with high RPM misfires at high boost. 20+ psi with Splitfire coils.

Swapped back to standard coils and it was fine out to 25+ psi .

I have talked to a few other people that had issues with the Splitfire

coils.

[skylinecouple]

Like any mod I guess you have to change the tune to suit.

[Cubes]

Like any mod I guess you have to change the tune to suit.

Spitfires are fine. Its just some ppl have issues some don't. Most likely an underlying problem.

Either way genuine coils are just as good, just 2x the price.

[Full-Race Geoff]

i think a lot of people confuse a CAS that is not reading properly with coilpacks going out (or both)

in my experience, if you put a known good set of coilpacks in a car (new splitfires included) you need to check the CAS output, chances are you will see at high rpm inconsistencies causing the misfire.

we have a snap-on scan tool that can connect to the cas and show the output. really helpful

[QRI05E]

I have stock coil packs that have been cleaned and coated with industrial silicone and NEVER had a single misfire while running 10psi and NGK irridiums gapped at 0.8mm... i was only getting 350kms to a tank and read that a larger gap would help economy... so i gapped them to 1mm and it began to splutter each time i gave it a hit... so back down to 0.8 without a miss!

Cheers

[Bl4cK32]

I have stock coil packs that have been cleaned and coated with industrial silicone and NEVER had a single misfire while running 10psi and NGK irridiums gapped at 0.8mm... i was only getting 350kms to a tank and read that a larger gap would help economy... so i gapped them to 1mm and it began to splutter each time i gave it a hit... so back down to 0.8 without a miss!

Cheers

its 16psi where they break down and give ppl the shitz...

[R31Nismoid]

Either way genuine coils are just as good, just 2x the price.

Pretty much summed it up in a a line

I used stock coils (RB25) for over 350rwkw.

You only get splitfires really when your kill your own. If stock ones were half affordable, you would use those instead

[fcruz3r]

may be a bit out of topic here...but im sure i have a broken coilpack but i need help on how to diagnose which one is stuffed...coz i dont want to go and replace all 6

does using a ammeter/multimeter to check be of any help? if so...which pins do i connect it to?

Cheers