Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As topic states, i need new grooves machined in my bilstein shockers. Anyone know somewhere that can do this for me?

Currently the fronts sit at 330mm and the rears are 340mm.

I want to have them done so i can put the car at std height (360mm all around) to clear a defect.

They have 3 grooves machined on there already, and its at the max now on the fronts, so i need another groove say 30mm down (to raise the car) and the rears need one groove about 20mm to raise it to 360mm.

Places in adelaide dont know what im on about, so id have to take out the shocks to show them, but i dont want em to stuff around as they havent done it before.

After its off defect i will raise the car to sit at 340/350mm as per SK's recommended height.

Springs that came with em :(. Bought all 4 as a set about 3 years ago. Ill get under there and have a look to get measurements for SK to work out the spring rates.

I rang an engineering shop here in Adelaide, but he had no idea what i was talking about. He said he didnt know if they could do it as the body of the shock would be a small wall thickness?? Obvious he has no idea..

I'll have to rip em out, and drop em off HOPING that they dont stuff em up...

Edited by Bl4cK32

i'm assuming they'd just bung them in a lathe and cut the grooves. they can measure the depth of the existing gooves and cut to the same depth for the new ones. if i had a lathe here i could do it myself! :(

Obviously if you send them up to me I can do it for you. But that's wasting money on freight, twice. Maybe be give Manta Racing Services a call, they are local;

Manta Racing Services Pty Ltd

Unit 11/ 4 Deacon Ave Richmond 5033

(08) 8234 8688

:( cheers :)

Places in adelaide dont know what im on about, so id have to take out the shocks to show them, but i dont want em to stuff around as they havent done it before.

After its off defect i will raise the car to sit at 340/350mm as per SK's recommended height.

Steve from Stable Suspensions (Pooraka) machined my bilsteins... tell them Howie with the 34 sent you.

I had some other work done at the same time... had a camber kit installed and a drop to 350mm all round. he charged me $200 for the labour. But you need to speak to steve directly.

Edited by Howie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...