Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all of them.

I didn't think that the ones that were same year as Australian market ones weren't able to come in?

Thanks for the quick reply though, thinking a 1991-93 model is for me.

Though one with a updated engine (R33 / R34 GTR engine), they able to come in? Or does it have to be the factory engine/same year engine?

cheers,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2763995
Share on other sites

all of them.

You can have an 89, 90, 93 or 94. Some months of 91 & 92 are available, but not those that correspond to the GT-R's Nissan once sold here.

There is fk all difference between a late R32 RB26 & one from an R33. The 34 RB26's are better, but not really worth the price of admission IMHO.

Edited by djr81
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2764084
Share on other sites

are you sure about that? R32GTRs sold here by nissan were limited compliance too (only 100 units), not full volume import (like S15s for example). bearing that in mind I was pretty certain you could import (under SEVS) any year R32 GTR you wanted. dont take my word for it, check with DOTARS. they will be able to confirm for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2764271
Share on other sites

turns out i was wrong.

you can import between the following dates: 01/1989-06/1991 and then 06/1992-1994

this is why questions like this shouldn't be asked on the forum when you can easily check the correct info from the source. otherwise you get knuckleheads like me posting up the wrong info.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2764311
Share on other sites

I was in the middle of a work training course... so I had it on the brain and decided to ask. Figured somebody might know.

I was going to double check anyway as most people prob wonder the same thing. But you've gone to that effort for me :ninja:

Thanks guys!

On the note of engines, yeah, I realise the differences between them, but wouldn't mind the younger age engine if the price is right. More a "what if" then a "I'm looking for". Still got to finish the major service on this one, some paint touch ups and new tyres before it goes on the market... As if sell a dodgey skyline!@#!@#

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2764386
Share on other sites

Mate in all honesty, with all the s/h GTR's already here for sale, why would you take the gamble on buying a car sight-unseen from Japan??

I went thru a similar thought-process 18mths ago after wanting a GTR for 15yrs (yep I'm almost an old prick), drove a handful of local cars, didn't rush it & ended up with a very solid car. I paid slightly higher than average price at the time but ended up with a car well above average condition of those that I've looked at before or since.

Maybe if you combined it with an actual trip to Japan you might come out with a good deal & effectively come away with a "free" holiday once you count the off-set of what you saved on the car itself vs what an equivalent car woulda cost you here, but it might also pay to ask BB about that 'cos I might be completly wrong.....

Another thing to remember, with the current compliance laws your freshly imported GTR has to be 100% original which tends to once again tip the "value-for-money" scale back in favour of an already registered & nicely modded local car.

Decisions decisions :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2764591
Share on other sites

I'm not rushing into anything.. this is going to be a nice few months before I even go look at local GTRs.

Just looking into the information for what there is, how much things cost, and what condition they are in. Yes it's a gamble, but after buying a local skyline... it wouldn't make a super difference. My line had only been in the country 6 months before I purchased it, got all the checks and it came back dandy... but it still had issues.

I expect issues, it's an old car now. And I'm not looking at value for money, I'm looking for a good car. Cars are a waste of money anyway :ninja: Purely for enjoyment.

At the end of the day, if I decide against the GTR (which I may well do) for the time being and instead do some mods to the GTS-t and save towards a house instead. Then I'll have at least learnt what it takes when I finally decide to make the next step :rofl:

Ahh the R32 GTR, the dream car *love*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2766419
Share on other sites

The import regulations do not allow cars built one year after those that have been originally sold here. As the 100 Australian complianced GT-R's were mid-1990 build, cars from 6/1990-6/1991 cannot be imported.

I agree that it would be best to find one locally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2771960
Share on other sites

RC Auto, was just asking to see if anybody did know, I don't take forum posts as the word of god... mostly I was curious and bored stiff in a training session for work software I can already use.

For future reference, buying local would be ideal.

Decided against the GTR at the current time anyway, looking for a 32 witha rb25det instead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2771977
Share on other sites

If you do decided to go down the import path I can not reccomend Imports101 highly enough mate you should have a squiz at the forums and see the R32 GTR they are building, that alone should be enough for you to do business with them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148087-import-r32-gtr/#findComment-2777587
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...