Jump to content
SAU Community

600kms From Tank


Recommended Posts

Guest 40th-edition

Not sure how many people get 600kms from a tank. driving sensable but not like grandma..

i always was getting around 450-480 with v-power(ulp98)

but i decided to try united boost98 (has ethonal)

i found no pinging at all (pinged on v-power a little) and much larger than normal fuel economy.

just thought i would see if any one else has had same results?

cheers, azza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148133-600kms-from-tank/
Share on other sites

Not sure how many people get 600kms from a tank. driving sensable but not like grandma..

i always was getting around 450-480 with v-power(ulp98)

but i decided to try united boost98 (has ethonal)

i found no pinging at all (pinged on v-power a little) and much larger than normal fuel economy.

just thought i would see if any one else has had same results?

cheers, azza

far out man r u sure its a factory tank? and wat kinda mods do u have?

i cannot see why a different octane rating would yield different economy? i would love for someone to show me how ?

best ive got in my r33 pfc was 550k's to a tank, and it wasn't empty

premium has a slightly higher heating value than regular and, thus can provide slightly better fuel economy.

The main reason for high octane fuel is that its actually more difficult to ignite which reduces the risk of pre detonation. So really the only reason that anyone should by premium is to ensure they dont get detonation. Not in false hopes they will gain large amounts of fuel economy as the difference between the premium and regular is very small..

as i thought, so if i was to use penis fuel and back out IGN timing vs using normal 98 ron i should see the same economy right ?

assuming all things equal, lets say plonk the car on a dyno for 550ks

back to back, one penis fuel with -5 iGN timing to take out detonation and the other normal timing back and 98ron

as i thought, so if i was to use penis fuel and back out IGN timing vs using normal 98 ron i should see the same economy right ?

assuming all things equal, lets say plonk the car on a dyno for 550ks

back to back, one penis fuel with -5 iGN timing to take out detonation and the other normal timing back and 98ron

I wouldnt expect to see any difference between the two within a couple of percent. But alot of peoples minds will tell them differently when driving on the road but there are to many variables that will affect economy to do an accurate fill up with one then the other road test with traffic, highway driving vs local ect ect.

Theoretically ethanol blends such as Boost 98 (10%) have less energy content per litre than a typical 98 RON fuel. A 10% blend has an impact on fuel economy from around 1-5%, with 3% being the average and the loss can be minimised with advancing the ignition timing but you won't get it all back. So I'm surprised you gain so much. You sure your last tank didn't involve some freeway driving?

as i thought, so if i was to use penis fuel and back out IGN timing vs using normal 98 ron i should see the same economy right ?

I would've thought you'd get worse economy if you pulled out 5 degrees timing.

Cheers

He wasn't saying that it would increase economy but if you were to test the fuel's in a performance engine so it wouldnt pre detonate during the test with the lower octane fuel

I know he wasn't saying it would increase economy. He was asking if he backed off the timing everywhere -5 degrees and ran a lower octane fuel would he get the same economy? I say no. That's why I don't run low octane fuels on a long trip - if I back off the timing say 5 degrees across the board to prevent detonation my responce and fuel economy will suffer.

If we could run say 110 octane fuel everyday and run more timing you should get better fuel economy. It won't be a big gain in economy but a gain so just like you said - you will see a marginal increase in economy. I wouldn't say though that you will see 50 - 100k's difference between 98 and 100 octane fuel - it most likely will be what you said - 3-5% - hardly noticable.

If you run afr's of 16:1 and put in more timing and drive sensibly I'd say you'd see 100 k's increase in fuel economy.

I'm happy enough with 550 k's I get from my tank highway only.

Cheers

As stated above, United Boost98 is an E10 fuel (10%) ethanol. You should not be seeing any more km per tank due to lower energy.

Ethanol in fuel will boost RON, but won't do much to the MON of a fuel at all. RON controls low speed, high load engine activity, whereas MON controls high speed, low load engine activity.

Either way you look at it, ethanol based fuels with the same RON will be an 'inferior' fuel and i'm not willing to use it in my engine. Vpower 100RON may be an exception, due to it being VPower98 with ethanol to boost RON to 100 as far as I am aware.

Fixxxer

I think the point with high octane fuel is being able to run more advance timing so that we can light the fire at a point in the cycle where the heat (thermal expansion) energy can give the greatest benefit to us per unit of fuel .

A "throttled" engine such as petrol fuelled one ends up with a reasonably low effective or dynamic compression ratio so there is a large benefit from lighting the mixture earlier before top dead centre to give the burning mixture time to develop its highest cylinder pressure when the piston is not too far past TDC . The trouble is that the air fuel mix wants to auto ignite because it is exposed to hot piston crown/valves/ chamber and reaches fire point before the plug arcs or before the spark ignited fuel and air is all burnt . Normally the last defence against detonation is to light the mixture closer to TDC because the power drop is preferable to piston (or whatever) damage .

The only performance you'd get from less that allowable timing with high octance fuel is the lighter wallet power to weight ratio .

Cheers A .

the big thing is driving conditions. i don't do very much highway driving (i class highway driving as 80kmh and above, as you can generally go more than a few kms without stopping). i do purely around town driving. i live about 3kms from work, its a mix of 50kmh and 60kmh zones, and i have to about 4 times in that distance.

if you live in the city and get a good run to work a few days of the week, instead of having to stop at every set of lights, you are going to get better economy than the next week where you have to stop every time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...