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"wang extension" lol classic!

Panels it is for me then =D

Thanks for your info guys, much appreciated. I'll be sure to post up pics when I get the car (fingers crossed the inspection goes well but admittedly I think we're in the clear).

Is there a range that the GTR compression should fall into? I know they should be as even as possible but is there a too low/too high set of values?

Cheers

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I'm still keen to know if anyone is running Dual Pods, not necessarily Apexi ones, and using a Cold Air Box using the stock snorkle. I have this setup atm and it works well and sounds excellent. Given the cost difference though, I think Panels might be the go.

as i said in the other thread:

i have been using Apexi Pods, which work perfectly.....

had the Blitz ones on for a while and they were shit...also tried HKS panel, and it was not good either...

in my book apexi and K&N make best filters....

after putting on a heat shield, my set up actually does not work too badly...the only problem is it makes the factory BOV loud....

i have a piece of carbon fibre seperating the pods from the rest of the engine....it works all right.

as ppl said here, by doing cam gears, power fc, boost it up to 12psi, you can get 270-300AWHP which will be nice and fun to drive....

- Attracts defects

- Increase air intake temps

- Cost more to buy and more to buy the inevitable cold air partition you need to install to stop the air intake temp rise

- Attracts defects - cops havnt bothered me at all, especially if they are bolted down properly. maybe ive been lucky?

- Increase air intake temps - not with a cai and partitining

- Cost more to buy and more to buy - what doesnt cost on a skyline

yes i like to throw money on colorfull stuff, plus they sound nice, imo.

but you cant go out and say they do nothing and are a waste.

steve

People will always push the limits of the car/motor. There are nuggets out there boasting how much rwhp they get on such things as stock fuel pumps, injectors, afm's, turbos, cams etc etc etc. For some stupid reason people think it is cool to say I got n hundred rwhp & I am still running a stock warbler. I have no idea why that is other than to suggest that some people are, infact, complete uckwits. :ninja:

:)

I too, don't modify cars to hold records, i replace bits if they become inadequate or if they pose a RISK :)

Compression numbers are mentioned a lot, hit the search button - Happy Mod'ing

- M

Edited by GeeTR
OK I'm happy with the info you guys have given me on induction, if you'd like to argue it more take it to PM =D

How bout some info on GTR compression figures?

when i first got my car 10 months ago, mine was 165 in every cynlinder.

i was told that as long as they stay even across each cynlinders, it is okay.

is this the compression u meant?

- Attracts defects - cops havnt bothered me at all, especially if they are bolted down properly. maybe ive been lucky?

- Increase air intake temps - not with a cai and partitining

- Cost more to buy and more to buy - what doesnt cost on a skyline

yes i like to throw money on colorfull stuff, plus they sound nice, imo.

but you cant go out and say they do nothing and are a waste.

steve

I agree with sewid and others, pods on a GTR are a watste of time and yes they are a defect, as are all intake mods in NSW. But the pods are a magnet for the cops because they can be seen amd they know what they are . they can't see your boost controler , cams. computer etc...

If you don't believe go and buy issue 70 HPI mag and you will see a stock looking white series III GTR in there with a STOCK airbox. I know you can't believe HPI or anyhting you read for that matter but i happen to know the car. She has well oner 350KW on all 4 ( yes KW not HP) and can run a 10 second 1/4 mile and 130MPH trap speed. Now when you are making that kind of power pods will help a little but they must be boxed and cold air fed.

I have a stock airbox in my car just like sewid has and its good for 290 kw . I have run 11.8 1/4 mile at 118 mph with this set up.

Actiondan,

If I was you The first thing i'll do is get myself a set of HKS GTSS turbos ( around $3k from Japan), front pipes a good jap atback, ebc and power F/C and provided you have a good engine enjoy driving it .

If you intend to track it you will need an oil cooler and maybe a better radiator . I would do all that long before I put any cams or cam gears in it .

The stock turbos are very good but they are very old and can distract themselves at any time, as you dont know how the car was run before you bought it, when they do they may stuff your engine too, so cheap insurance .

Stock GTR engine should have about 165psi on all 6, more important is the variance between cylinders. because it will depend on how the test is done . Do a leakdown test as well, its a better indicator .

If you still want to keep your turbos don't run more than 1 bar and keep your fingers crossed, it could last forever and could blow up tomorrow, even on stock boost .

The car has a Ganador titanium turbo back system and high flow cat as far as I could see under it so that's sorted. 3k for turbo's is a bit much straight off the bat 0_0 What are GTR Turbo's worth? I was told N1's are a good upgrade and that the GT-SS's are a bit more laggy? Either way, 3k straight up when I've just dropped a a fair few bucks on the car is a lot. Might get to saving and stay on stock boost for a while I think =D

Should have comp figures tomorrow!

I didn't think standard GTST turbo's were that sensitive at stock boost, are GTR turbo's more prone to failure in general or only at higher boost levels?

The car has a Ganador titanium turbo back system and high flow cat as far as I could see under it so that's sorted. 3k for turbo's is a bit much straight off the bat 0_0 What are GTR Turbo's worth? I was told N1's are a good upgrade and that the GT-SS's are a bit more laggy? Either way, 3k straight up when I've just dropped a a fair few bucks on the car is a lot. Might get to saving and stay on stock boost for a while I think =D

Should have comp figures tomorrow!

I didn't think standard GTST turbo's were that sensitive at stock boost, are GTR turbo's more prone to failure in general or only at higher boost levels?

Not much diff in GTSS and R34 GTR N1's ( you can get R34 N1's with different specs). For $3 k you will get the 2 turbos and all the gaskets you need to do the swap..

GTSTS are more of a normal car if get the drift ( heaps of them are stock in Japan and have an easy life) on the other hand you don't buy a GTR to go shopping/church with, so they have a much harder life, especially an old one. Who knows where its been, how many k's its done , how hard its driven or even if it was stock before you got it in stock form . GTRS run higher boost in stock form as well. GTSTS blow turbos too but as a rule they dont suck the ceramic dust back in .

At the end of the day its your car and your money so up to you what you do but you are talking about cams, cam gears and so on, before you spend money on that do turbos. Don't forget these will make more power than stockers with the same mods as well and they are just as responsive as stockers...

Yer I totally get what you're saying for sure, really depends on what I want from the car I guess, still 3K on turbo's is better than 6k+ or whatever it is for a rebuilt 26DETT. What are the stock GTR turbo's worth? I guess a few bucks can be had from those to offset the cost of the new ones.

Yer I totally get what you're saying for sure, really depends on what I want from the car I guess, still 3K on turbo's is better than 6k+ or whatever it is for a rebuilt 26DETT. What are the stock GTR turbo's worth? I guess a few bucks can be had from those to offset the cost of the new ones.

If one of the turbos lets go and some ceramic crap gets sucked in $6k won't go far for a rebuild and R=R engine. While you at it you will be doing other things as well , like clutch etc...

Stock turbos are not worth much unless they are 34 GTR turbos, i have a pair of 33 turbos , one good one stuffed ( spat the wheel) , i'll sell for $150 for the 2 if anyone wants them ..

OK if i was you, for now and if everything checks out fine.

leave the car how it is! start gathering up money and parts that will be usable in the future. set a goal for your car. i see you want to stick with twin's which is cool! do you want something thats responsive? do you want to make over 300wkw? what do you plan to use the car for?

its best to set a goal and work around it! you will get all the help you need it working it all out here!

I guess my 'goal' would be to have a nice balanced street car, I'm not out to win any dyno shoot outs or be the fastest car around, owning a V-Spec is cool enough for me. I won't really know if 250awkw's is enough until I get there but from what I read that's about the limit of the stock Turbo's. For now I'll simply get used to the power difference over my GTS25T and go from there. It's looking more and more like a turbo upgrade is not only good for power if I want more than 250kw's but also good for safety so that might have to be the first things I get saving for.

Cheers for all the help guys. Car is due to be inspected in around 10mins, fingers crossed =D

Plenty of good advice here. I have a few points of my own to add/support previous comment.

Stock airbox will be fine unless you chase mega power. I prefer the factory or Apexi filter, and really don't like oiled filters of any type. I also particularly don't like the HKS stuff either. A matter of personal preference. The Apexis give more flow and clean better than any other common filter, and I'll attach a test to demonstrate.

Turbos are all a time bomb if you stick with ceramic. The GTR ones handle a bit more psi than GTSt due to being smaller in diameter so less centrifugal force at the same rpm. Slide will rebuild the stockers for about $1400 for the pair. Good insurance and cheap enough to not say no to, and they will flow about 320awkw with the other additions but keep the boost sensible and it will be fine for the stock setup until you can afford it. I'm gathering bits now and just waiting on the last items to arrive but 700cc injectors, Bosch 044, swirl pot and PFC are all going in together with the Sliding twins (do they sound naughty or what? :laugh: ).

On the compression test side look for 150-170psi with about 1% difference across the pots, higher being much gooderer of course :laugh:

With the heat yesterday the car was running at 100deg oil temp, so a cooler is not a bad thing if you are planning on some track, and as mentioned a relocator will do wonders for maintaining cleanliness. I have a couple of setups waiting to go on the track barge and the GTR, and the best around is the recent group buy by N1GTR, so grease up and he may do a favour...offer dancing and tequila and he can't resist :sick:

Basically just get used to the car and then start finding more power. They will do silly stuff with a bit extra grunt like torque steer the fronts if you light it up in the wet so you will have to adapt your driving style slightly. Otherwise just buy and enjoy.

Air_Filter_Tests.PDF

So are you using the Apexi Pod's or Panels atm? I've had no issues with my oiled filter after 14mths of usage and cleaning it every 5,000k's.

I've heard of slide's rebuild's, is it just a stock rebuild or an improvement over stock, as in does he make them ball bearing (I didn't think 33GTR turbo's were ball bearing?) Because $1400 sounds like good insurance and if they're capable of 300awkw's then that's more than I'll ever pursue on a daily driver.

I'll have a look at the group buy you mentioned and should have some info on compression soon enough. I didn't realise compression had to be so close across all cylinders, I was under the iompression you could have say 5psi variance acros them and that's still a healthy engine. See what the figures say.

Cheers

Just had a look at the Oil relocater/cooler setup, looks the goods and double filtration and no mess plus a cooler for about $400 sounds good to me =D

Edited by ActionDan

OK Just got the call. The guy explained that comp came out as 100, 90, 90, 100, 90 90 (Dry test). Which based on what you guys have said is CRAZY low. The mechanic explained that this sounds right to him given the car is a twin turbo and will run low compression but geez that seems low. He feels the K's are genuine, and that the car is in excellent condition all round making smooth power throughout the rev range and with nothing to report as far as mechanics go. He did note some small corrosion on the metal fuel tank shield underneath and also fingernail size spot in the gap between the front guard and the windscreen - so looking down the windscreen to where the front guard overlaps there, surface only though. He explained that the car does not appear to have been crashed/painted or had body panels removed and that in his opinion appears to be an excellent and genuine vehicle. The compression has me concerned, do Nissan have specs on this stuff? Another opinion would be good.

Mechanic said test was done with an open throttle too if that helps.

If it helps I could not detect any smoke under revs or load when testing the car myself, not while driving or stopped. I'm concerned with the numbers but at the same time the car felt so tight and smooth across the rev range.

Edited by ActionDan

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