Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

will, it need to be a very high pressure compressor that is able to pump the paint to a fine mist. correct me if im wrong sam.

half right duc, any air compressor should be able to turn the paint into a mist, its jsut the compressor will need to have enough puff to do a whole car. with my old compressor (2.0HP) i had to stop spraying 4 times (painting a bonnet) to let it build up more pressure.

yeah, but it will look awesome when it's finished - and if you took it to a crash repairer it would cost you $2k+ for an inferior quality job.

Yeah, Will isn't too much of a drinker these days, so he is normally happy to be nominated driver!

hey Sam - I am not going to do it soon, but assuming my R34 4 door's paint was in v.good condition, and seeing that it's black already - would it be possible to do a light rub down and do some minor pin dent/scratch repairs, then do a couple of coats of midnight purple over the top? Or would it need to be rubbed right back anyhow like for a complete respray? And/or, are there any other options to freshen up paint to brand new, like adding a couple of coats of clear or something?

Also, a few years ago I saw a car in Adelaide that was painted dark purple, then the clear coat had a harlequin type sprinkle actually in the clear coat. Is that easy to do over an existing colour?

Ill have a look at the paint on your R34 for you when it gets here, chances are a buff & polish will bring up the paint like new.

hey Sam - I am not going to do it soon, but assuming my R34 4 door's paint was in v.good condition, and seeing that it's black already - would it be possible to do a light rub down and do some minor pin dent/scratch repairs, then do a couple of coats of midnight purple over the top?

Yep, its possible to do that

And/or, are there any other options to freshen up paint to brand new, like adding a couple of coats of clear or something?

Ive noticed that nissans solid black are done in clear over base, so that would be an option, my only problem with doing this is although the paint will be nice and glossy any minor dents will show up even more

Also, a few years ago I saw a car in Adelaide that was painted dark purple, then the clear coat had a harlequin type sprinkle actually in the clear coat. Is that easy to do over an existing colour?

The harlequin itself is actually a transparent layer put down over a black base. seeing as you car is black already, that would act as a base. so steps would be - light sanding/scouring of existing paint, 2 coats of harlequin layer, 2 coats of clear. I would definately recommend that all minor dents are repaired in this situation, the smallest of panel imperfections will ruin the look of a harlequin job.

Hope that helps you out a bit, will give you a few options to think about anyway.

Sam

Use the compressor with a sander to help with the prep work. (anything beats dooing it all by block)

Definately, its way quicker to use an orbital hand sander. the only down side to this is the panels will look all rippley when you look at them on an angle. Using a block or a file with the correct method will give that nice straight look to a panel :thumbsup:

Sam, I know it is a hard question, but can you ballpark me the last option - fix say 6 small pin dents/scratches, lightly sand back whole car, touch up repair work black (as a base), then 2 coats of harlequin, 2 coats of clear? Just roughly, assuming I help you sand and its a private job .... also could you sort of ballpark quote it as an official job through your work (including GST) - as it's a work car I get the tax benefit that way :) .... I won't hold you to it - just wanna know roughly. This is all pie in the sky stuff ... but it's nice to dream :thumbsup:

Sam, I know it is a hard question, but can you ballpark me the last option - fix say 6 small pin dents/scratches, lightly sand back whole car, touch up repair work black (as a base), then 2 coats of harlequin, 2 coats of clear? Just roughly, assuming I help you sand and its a private job .... also could you sort of ballpark quote it as an official job through your work (including GST) - as it's a work car I get the tax benefit that way :) .... I won't hold you to it - just wanna know roughly. This is all pie in the sky stuff ... but it's nice to dream :thumbsup:

yeah, thats a bit of a tricky question. i'm not totally up to speed with the way pricing is done, i just put the paint on the cars :). I know that there was a 180SX done by a shop here in SA in harlequin, and all up the price was about $15K. With my own pricing, i havent really got anything solid. My main problem is access to a spray booth. My boss is reluctant to let me even do my own stuff in his booth, he fears that it looses him business. I've tried painting 2K in the shed a few times, and it doesnt work too well, all sorts of dirt, rubbish, bugs land in the paint. But yeah, have a think about it and let me know what you wanna do.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...