Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

was browsing the net (s2ki.com forums) for a friends who's interested in a turbo kit for his s2k and came across this. turbo kit supplied by lovefab

chaddskit%20017.jpg

chaddskit_018_sized.jpg

v-tec and turbo :O

price? messly $7k USD cheap considering a Vortech S/C goes for $5k AUD installed + tuned (i think)

Edited by Nozila
Imagine revving that thing to limits like V-Tek should. Damn! It really is a damn shame Honda make a shiat load of FWD's.........Way to keep the yanks happy Honda!

i drove a honda prelude around at work today, i love how the 4WS works on those things!!!

thought id share my current problem with everyone, if you had any ideas to help me out would be appreciated. copy pasted below:

----

Well, I've had my car off the road for 2 weeks now, basically all of which have been spent at my tuner's shop. The problem:

Start her up and will immediatley run very rough, rpm jumping up and down, missing etc. Leave for about 5 minutes and it will idle smoothly instantaneously, or take for a drive and about 5-10 minutes of driving it will act more normal in terms of idle. BUT then it doesnt have any power under load. It becomes flat, you can hear the turbo spool and a rush of air, but goes no where.

What has been done:

He has replaced all engine sensors, AFM, CAS had it on the dyno. Fuel pump, lins, filter all checked as well and cleaned. It is running lean... very lean, so lean the engine doesnt have enough fuel to operate properly, this is occuring on all cylinders.

Higher temperatures seem to make it better, the longer you run the car for the better it gets, but never close to perfect. He had determind that the problem has to lie either with the ECU, or the wiring into it. He is supremely confident that an after market computer will fix this problem. I have access to R32 ECU and loom, and hence this should also fix the problem, once wired up correctly. I need second, third etc opinions though before i go ahead and spend money, hence this post.

I have just recently had the entire intake side off, inlet butterflies remove and sealed up good and propper. exhuast manifold has been ripped off, studs replaced and put back on with the addition of an r33 turbo. Amoutn other things and a full service. Was running fine until about 4-5 days after, then it got progressivly to ths state. It did this before i had this work done, but on a VERY small level, and 10 minutes of driving would see if going perfectly.

hey stevo! there are no boost leaks or anything?

your problem sounds very similar to one of the guys at work who has a VL turbo. had the exact same symptoms and all, weird idle & no power under boost, the boost guage read 9psi and absolutely no extra power, it was the same as driving an NA one.

It tuned out all of the injectors were blocked up with crap & one injector was faulty. injectors were cleaned out/replaced and it ran good again.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
    • Did you hit up the search function? R33 and greddy and cable returns this thread with some options.   https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358214-rb25-throttle-body/
    • Thanks buddy.. the standard one needs to be about another inch or inch and a half longer. Thanks anyway
×
×
  • Create New...