Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont get me wrong i may have gotten the translation wrong, but i have heard that by placing the FMIC behind the radiator will increase response. this is if you have the room to do so (with the SR i do).

no i understand that it will shorten the intercooler piping length, bhut wont the excess heat just negate the added response? now i have enough cooling knowledge/techniques to keep an SR from ever over heating. but thats with the intercooler in the front...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148613-intercooler-behind-the-radiator/
Share on other sites

Take advantage of where you are living, rock on down to a couple of local workshops and get a quote on a V-mount setup :santa: The idea sort of defeats the purpose of using an intercooler. Maybe look at rigging up a trick waterspray system?

yeah that was my next idea... not hard to do myself since i am a bracket-making-master haha.. and yeah ill be running water-misters since that is also easy to do.. and i have tons of room for a extra tank...

but still not really i mean its still being cooled through the intercooler just not as much and im sure with the right fans you would see the response benefits..

Dont get me wrong i may have gotten the translation wrong, but i have heard that by placing the FMIC behind the radiator will increase response. this is if you have the room to do so (with the SR i do).

no i understand that it will shorten the intercooler piping length, bhut wont the excess heat just negate the added response? now i have enough cooling knowledge/techniques to keep an SR from ever over heating. but thats with the intercooler in the front...

I think you've got it confused

The technique your actually thinking of is to put the intercooler where the radiator sits, and the radiator sits behind that with a thermo attached, like here Intercooler/Radiator kit.

I think you've got it confused

The technique your actually thinking of is to put the intercooler where the radiator sits, and the radiator sits behind that with a thermo attached, like here Intercooler/Radiator kit.

ok i double checked and my jap friend said that its true. run the intercooler behind the radiator is the way to go.. most people dont have the room so its not a possibility but with a set of electric fans (pulling air through) it should cool just fine and increase response.

in addition i think some water-misters would do the trick nicely with cooling assist.

i agree a V-mount is the best option... who knows i guess ill make a descision once it comes down to it...

should be doing the swap in about 2 weeks, after i stitch-weld and paint the engine bay, and pretty up the motor a bit while its out.

Edited by 4DoorWhore

So, you are going to sit a device, designed to remove heat, inside a hot-box (ie engine bay), and pass pre-heated air (ie air that has just passed thru the radiator) through it in order to cool the air charge being delivered to the engine.

How on earth can that be good for the engine?

I have seen one such installation - the IC was hotter than the radiator after a few laps of Winton racetrack.

Yeah, not a good idea. The air from the radiator will be heated as it passes through and then this is the air that will have to cooler your compressed air. Your water will be hotter than your compressed air so it is a good idea to have to cooler one in front, as heat transfer via convection is propotional to the difference in temperature

i agree playing devils avocate in this conversation i still cant see any reason why this would work anybetter than a regular setup besides an slight increase in response....

well ill shoot for a V mount... maybe a Z mount even since id like to utilize the extra room...

meh

I think running the intercooler where the radiator sits and the radiator behind that will work better, and the pipes will only be soooo slightly longer. Don't see why you'd want to mess around putting it behind the radiator

  • 2 weeks later...

Increase response... BY how much?... Noticable...? Unlikely... Costly...? Um yeah...

Waste of time man IMO... (been said before, but will say it again)... the hot air runs through the rad from outside... mmm not the best idea for intercoolers, last time I checked... and what about the heat from the engine bay, and your intercooler sitting in there and cooking??

V-Mount is a different story, but the bonnet is usually opened up, like on Pink Bits (Denzo's drift car). Just remember, the air needs to go somewhere...

exactly... shorter piping corect...

but switching sides for a second... the heat will heat the air and decrease the efficency of the intercooler..

but... switching sides once more haha... with the room i will still have even with the intercooler add a vented hood, and dual electric fans and the increase in air temp could be compesated and the benifits of shorter piping could be reaped.

remember also that on an SR the intake is on the opposite side of the exhaust and does not need the piping to be sent back to the exhaust side like the RB. so the shortness of the piping can be great.

ill take better pics this weekend when the swap begans...

DSC01392.jpg

if you look at in a geometric perspective you could remove the radiator and maybe sqeeze another SR in there length wise haha...

Edited by 4DoorWhore

if you put the fmic directly onto the radiator... hot air from engine bay will be pushed through your radiator, making it even hotter, and then onto your fmic, which is sitting against a boiling hot metal radiator, which will quikly heat up your fmic, very stupid, there is a reason alot of top mounts get water cooled, but yeh if you do want response and efficiency, may be at a bit of an extra cost, go for a water cooler fmic unit, if not then the v setup

But lets look at it this way. Doesnt the exact same thing happen with the intercooler and A/C thing? So then you have more hot air going through your radiator? Thus making your engine hotter?

I can see where the theory comes from. It does make sense on paper, just in real life it wont work as good.

That's exactly right. That's why a lot people have overheating problems after they get an FMIC and/or use their A/C

The exit stream from your intercooler is a lot cooler than the exit stream for the radiator as the compressed air is cooler than the coolant. Blah blah blah

Edited by salad

ok lets switch this thread up a bit... we in theory know that this wont work well due to the amount of heat and air blockage...

Now lets throw in the AC cooler... how would you fit that into the equation if removing it is not an option?? i was thinking of pairing the AC cooler and the radiator together on the bottom of the V-mount... with the cooler in front of the rad.

Edited by 4DoorWhore

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...