Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

astlineofdefence - Yea but its bit pricey for my budget... im getting a just jap kit...

HRthirtyone - I spoke to a few places regarding Anodising and they told me that 2 things that may go wrong with the FMIC:

1. If there are any impurities in the aluminium it will cause patches

2. The sulfuric acid MAY damage the fins (its a risk)

So my only conclusion is to get a radiator shop to spray it using Radiator paint.

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E
  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, I just spoke to a local Radiator Repair Shop and he recommended the following:

- Sand back the polished areas of the FMIC kit (piping + end tanks)

- Add a brass vacuum nipple to the crossover pipe (for actuator)

- Lightly prime the end tanks and all piping using etch primer.

- Spray the piping and end tanks with Black semi-matt high-temp paint.

- Very lightly coat the FMIC core with Black semi-matt high-temp paint.

$60 - $100 for the whole job (depending on time consumption)

I also called a company that specialises in Anodising automotive parts. They recommended NOT to paint the intercooler as it would insulate the heat and trap it inside.

$160 approx for Anodising a FMIC Kit in Matt Black

Cheers,

Sarkis

Yep thats $160 including piping... but unfortunatly i just found out that the Just Jap FMIC kits have chrome plated piping which means they need to be stripped before anodised...

Might need to get the FMIC anodised and the piping painted?

Regards,

Sarkis

I spoke to Plazmaman who are specialists in intercoolers and they reckon as long as its a light coat of paint, it wont effect the cooling by much if at all... so i dont know who to believe... maybe the anodisers said that painting will insulate heat just to convince me in taking my product there?

From all i have read and researched, im sure that as long as the FMIC core and fins arnt covered with much more then 0.1mm of paint they should still cool the same as bare aluminium. cause the cooling process is done within the thickness of the core not the front or rear surface meaning as long as no paint gets into the fin area, it will have nil effect on its coolong performance. So perhaps use etch primer for the end tanks and piping then spray with high temp matt black... and just dust the surface of the FMIC with high temp matt-black...

Regards,

Sarkis

Hey Guys, just got a quote for $10 from a radiator shop to spray an FMIC kit with black thermal paint...

Wetherill Park Radiator Service

Unit 24/ 274 Victoria St Wetherill Park NSW 2164

ph: (02) 9604 7798

Ask For: Chris

Regards,

Sarkis

hey man, why dont you go with this? why have you changed your mind?

Thats without any sanding, preping or primer... just straight spray on... i dont think it will last long on the polished pipes... rather do it right the first time round.

Cheers

Thanks for the reply guys, my aim is NOT to chase 0.00001 hp gain but to have it hidden behind the front bar and not noticable... im sure if i just spray it black it will flake off after a few months from the hot and cold temp changes...

I dont want a GTR FMIC cause i prefer a kit that comes with all the piping... dont want to have to make up custom pipes...

Is the Nismo black FMIC still in production?

Cheers

You dont have to make up custom piping for the gtr front mount.. I fitted one one my car perfectly.. and just using a standard piping kit..

It cost me $100 or more less then a hybird kit and flows just as good :P

You dont have to make up custom piping for the gtr front mount.. I fitted one one my car perfectly.. and just using a standard piping kit..

It cost me $100 or more less then a hybird kit and flows just as good :P

ZOMGGG D I F !!

YOU STILL HAVE THAT ULTRA COOL SIGNATURE!!

GIMME GIMME !!

SO HOTTTT

Please....stop there, no need for fancy work.

Simple light mist coats from a black spray can will fix this issue.....it will not clog up your intercooler etc aslong as u mist it on and dont do thick coats. I dont it on my oilcooler and i would notice the affect much more on a oil cooler and it was 100% perfect.

Chances are your front mount is far to big for your application to start off with and its already lagging your car so black spray wont affect it what so ever. Not being rude.

- Luke

Luke - Im getting a highflow turbo, 555cc injectors, walbro pump, Haltech ECU all fitted... aiming for 250+rw/kw... you telling me a 600 x 300 x 76 FMIC is too big?

Dont think so!

Cheers

Take it to a radiator repair shop and get them to paint it. Their stuff is made for the job.

Hi Geoff,

Do you mind posting up any radiator shops you recommend to take it too? (eastern suburbs :devil: ) Or are the local radiator shops fine?

Any decent radiator shop will do the job... im sure any pannel beater will too...

A black grill is a good idea but the only problem then is the pipes that stick out the side of the R33 S2 bar underthe fog lights/blinkers...

Can anyone please post up some pics of their S2 R33 with grill infront of their FMIC?

Cheers

Don't paint it!!! 0.1mm may sound like not much, but that's 100 micron of paint, more than enough to trap heat.

A lot of the polyurethane paint you see on things is less than that, when you consider a factory car paint job is around 125 micron, that's a lot of paint on your cooler.

Dan what you suggest? The FMIC i can get Anodised but the piping is chrome plated aluminium... how am i going to get them black?

If i anodise the FMIC (end tanks and core) would it be okay to paint or powder coat the piping?

Here is a little edit I done in Photo shop... i really prefer the stealth look....

post-23753-1169538392.jpg post-23753-1169538371.jpg

Regards,

Sarkis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...