Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

heller44: I bought the HID Kit in a group buy started by nismos15. Because I haven't gone on the road with the new lights (my car has a leaking brake system), I'm not too sure how well it performs on the road. The kit is alot brighter than standard lights and the cut off line is more clearer with the HID globes.

SoFly: The H3 globes were a straight bolt on to the H3C socket. It took me less than 10 minutes to test the kit and that was in the dark with a torch :( . All I had to do after that was mount the ballasts.

before conversion cutoff line

before conversion front view

before conversion cutoff

during conversion front view

after conversion cutoff line

after conversion front view

after conversion cutoff

They're not the best pictures but you get the idea.

Cheers

Adam

Edited by adam-__-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148663-hid-for-r32/#findComment-2778040
Share on other sites

hanyou: Nah I don't mate.

When you look in the engine bay, you don't notice anything different from stock. I tucked all the ballast and cable away so you don't really see them.

I still need to adjust the light angle and see how they go on the road. Just have to wait till I get my parts.

Cheers

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148663-hid-for-r32/#findComment-2781069
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

You can use H3 or H3C, the only difference is the ground wire. I've got a pick somewhere where I added a ground wire - it's pretty easy. In my experience the hotspots and glaring is terrible with xenon kits. I'd only use them on projectors. a31, r32 and s13 projectors seem to work fine with no leaks, minimal no glare, excellent cutoff and minimal hotspots...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148663-hid-for-r32/#findComment-2835817
Share on other sites

You can use H3 or H3C, the only difference is the ground wire. I've got a pick somewhere where I added a ground wire - it's pretty easy. In my experience the hotspots and glaring is terrible with xenon kits. I'd only use them on projectors. a31, r32 and s13 projectors seem to work fine with no leaks, minimal no glare, excellent cutoff and minimal hotspots...

My car originally took H3C's but I got an H3 HID kit and there was no modifying needed. I think you only have to add a ground wire if you were to keep the halogen globes.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148663-hid-for-r32/#findComment-2837074
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Has anyone installed a HID kit on an R33 GTST?

Is it as easy as an R32 install? R33s use H1 bulbs

Adam, is the cutoff line able to be adjusted to be higher or lower?

I don't want to be blinding people if I install it on mine

Hey mate, you can adjust where your lights are pointing the same way as you would with the halogen globes. I pointed my lights down more than normal because as you can see, there is more glare and I don't want to be blinding people more then I already am.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148663-hid-for-r32/#findComment-2972398
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

i had a r32 gtst and it use H1, not using H3, and i can't manage the fit the HID bulb in, because the stock H1 are plug into a cap, and you twist that cap into the headligh housing, so it don't comes with any metal spring that to holding the bulb like the GTR, and the H1 hid bulb is impossible to plug into the stock holding cap without modification... so anyone done this before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148663-hid-for-r32/#findComment-3483308
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...