Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interesting...so did you ever run the car with your new motor on road tyres?

Im interested to hear from more people whether semis are harder on brakes or easier? My car doesnt really hurt brakes irrespective of tyres so cant really tell.

I found I definitely hurt the brakes a lot more using semis. The extra grip afforded means holding much more speed into corners and much more 'available braking' before you can lock a tyre. So I guess you can wipe off far more speed (even though you go through the corner faster on semis of course - I think you still disperse more energy/heat as the overall increased speeds and later breaking)

I had no trouble at Wakefield in my 1500kg Porsche running EBC greens - cant say the same about my GTR with DS2500s... but you'll need to careful when drawing any conclusions from that. (Porsche 1:18, GTR 1:17)

Maybe the Porsche had much bigger pads/rotors which would mean you didn't generate as much heat? Its only the heat developed which ultimately kills the pads - so perhaps the DS2500 just had to put up with more rotor temperature?

what model porsche are you referring to? (i Love porsches and work on them for a living) i bedded in the maxistops and already they have faded on bedding in (maybe i cooked them) i jsut hope i didnt cook the new discs

Its was an 1984 (so the big single piston jobbies, not the "hand of God"'s) 928S auto. Even with the greens they brakes felt nicer than the GTR's dual pistons + DS2500s, which as stated by others should be a much better track pad.

Rgs,

Kot

Maybe the Porsche had much bigger pads/rotors which would mean you didn't generate as much heat? Its only the heat developed which ultimately kills the pads - so perhaps the DS2500 just had to put up with more rotor temperature?

The porsche was running 16inch rims so the rotors couldnt have been as big as the 324mm's i have on the GTR now (with the sumitomo calipers and extention brackets). I think the pad surface area would have been about the same size. The 324s seem a lot better than the 296s, but i still got some wobble.

I also measured the rotor temp with the 324's and it was only about 300 deg by the time i measured (so it would have been a bit more on the track itself. None of the DBA4000 thermal paint stripes had gone off tho, so they couldnt have been that hot.

Maybe i just remember the porsche better than it really was... maybe porsche use better material in the rotors...??

  • 2 weeks later...

Have just bought myself a set of RB74's and am going to use thm allong with the stock rotors.

Their judgement day is @ wakefeild next week.I have a feeling that they will be ample enough for my needs.

As far as the bedding in proceedure goes i was told to do 4 runs at 70kph down to 10kph using med braking force.Then drive easy for a couple of mins then do it again.then just drive normal.

Was also told to never brake hard,drive over 100kph and brake or hold the accelerator down while holding brake down when bedding in new brakes.all no no's :(

Interesting...so did you ever run the car with your new motor on road tyres?

Im interested to hear from more people whether semis are harder on brakes or easier? My car doesnt really hurt brakes irrespective of tyres so cant really tell.

I would have thought with the semis you are on the brakes for a shorter period of time as your corner speed is higher and brakign distances shorter. The heat input is going to depend on grip levels but i would think the duration of braking time being longer with road tyres, combined with less corner speed will mean your brakes would be getting hotter.

Interesting to see how you go now with the pads and rotors sorted...are you sure the dead pads/run of little probs were all related to running semis?

Yep i did one track day with the new power at philip island on street tyres, brakes didn't give me any hint of issue, traction did tho :(

On street tyres, the brakes lock up easier, so i guess theres less friction there before lock up on streets, compared to semis, there would be more friction which could be part of what causes it... Went to winton with RB74's thats where i killed my discs/pads on semis.. then went to PI with DS3000 and new fluid, and had soft pedal pretty much straight away... very annoying.... which just means heat is being put into the lines/fluid i guess, so hoping getting rid of the heat before it gets that far will work. Ie DBA5000 + get rid of stone guards, plus look at ducting.... Works for chris, gotta work for me right?

Also ben says semis make brakes work way harder, and we all know he's never wrong :happy:

Besides that you can jsut feel semis putting more strain on the whole car, suspension, brakes etc....

Has anyone had an experience with Project Mu rotors and pads? I'm looking at starting to do track days and want to upgrade. The are one option I'm looking at but I haven't heard anyone talk about them.

http://www.mackinindustries.com/md/projectmu/projectmu.html

Also, does anyone run have experience with Nismo S Tune or R Tune pads?

FYI, here are the two options I'm looking at:

Item Brand Model Cost Source

Greenline $1,406.86

Brake Rotors, Front Project Mu SCR Rotor $435.68 Greenline

Brake Rotors, Rear Project Mu SCR Rotor $392.18 Greenline

Brake Pads, Front Project Mu HC+ $202.11 Greenline

Brake Pads, Rear Project Mu HC+ $185.17 Greenline

Braided Brake Lines Nismo $191.73 Greenline

UAS $1,720.00

Brake Rotors, Front DBA 4000 $490.00 UAS

Brake Rotors, Rear DBA 4000 $490.00 UAS

Brake Pads, Front Ferodo DS 2500 $275.00 UAS

Brake Pads, Rear Ferodo DS 2500 $170.00 UAS

Braided Brake Lines Goodridge $295.00 UAS

if your not going up in disc size. your wasting your money on slotted etc etc rotors.

brakes are a leaver. if there the same diameter there going to ofer the same force.

just get the best pads you can oford. that is if your ones arnt had it.

if your not going up in disc size. your wasting your money on slotted etc etc rotors.

brakes are a leaver. if there the same diameter there going to ofer the same force.

just get the best pads you can oford. that is if your ones arnt had it.

There is also heat dissipation to worry about... after market rotors can get rid of heat better than stock ones.

I used the project Mu level 900 padsa and they were great but ended up killing the RDA discs. I still reckon that the disc cracked while it was siting in the pits thought as i read later that a car should be moved a few inches every few minutes when returned to the pits to stop heat transfer and cracking discs. They were great though never faded once.

I used Bendix Ultimates with RDA rotors and Jaguar DOT4 Brake fluid. Brakes were awesome, stopping was consistant but pedal started to get soft as the day progressed, ill do another flush this week and now my brakes squeal like a pig. Oh well all in good fun!

I used Bendix Ultimates with RDA rotors and Jaguar DOT4 Brake fluid. Brakes were awesome, stopping was consistant but pedal started to get soft as the day progressed, ill do another flush this week and now my brakes squeal like a pig. Oh well all in good fun!

Good to hear it went well. If you're doing another flush go for the Motul RBF600. It seems to stand up to the punishment well - i dont feel like i need to bleed my brakes after track days since i've been using that.

BTW, i suspect my brake problems may have been contributed to by completely stuffed upper control arm bushes...

Rgs,

Kot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...