Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Currently im building a 180sx with an RB25DET in it and just need a few tips/pointers as to the turbo setup i should run. I have searched and so far the most tempting turbo I can find is a HKS 3037S 52T .87. My goals for the car:

- 350-400rwhp

- Step 1 cams

- Headgasket (8.5 CR)

- Supporting fuel system

- PowerFC

- Stock bottom end

- Used for drift events/street

Can anyone suggest a better turbo for my project? If so, what and why is it better? :nyaanyaa:

Also just need some educated guesses as to when the 3037 .87 will make full boost (lets say 17psi) and what sort of power I can expect from this boost on a good condition RB25.

Thanks heaps,

Ryan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148794-choosing-a-turbo/
Share on other sites

im running a HKS GT 2835 PRO S, full boost by 3300rpm (16psi) max power 337rwhp (very very rich tune 11:1 afr)

running stock engine (only got 740cc injectors and z32 afm + pfc) and my engine got 125,000km +

Both the gt 2835 pros and GT-RS make similar power and come on boost hard and fast;

I use to do abit of drifting and found the 2835 to be awsome comes on boost very fast and once it was going i never saw much lag at all and even at 337hp it was enough to get the r33 sideways :nyaanyaa:

Good luck :laugh:

52 trim 3037 would be my choice as well but step down to the .63 exhaust.

I'd also leave the stock head gasket alone.

Check this thread out for a garrett alternative using a 52 trim wheel (garrett only offers 56 trim normally). Cost should be significantly lower than the HKS.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=147580

' date='27 Dec 2006, 02:38 AM' post='2775209']

im running a HKS GT 2835 PRO S, full boost by 3300rpm (16psi) max power 337rwhp (very very rich tune 11:1 afr)

Thats some good power. Out of interest, when "Pro" is used in conjunction with HKS turbos does it generally just mean they are internally gated or are there some other important differences?

52 trim 3037 would be my choice as well but step down to the .63 exhaust.

I'd also leave the stock head gasket alone.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=147580

Im coming from a CA18DET so i just assume changing the head gasket is a necessity for running high boost :P....is it not that necessary with RB25DETs? Also, the reason im after the .87 A/R is mainly so that there is room for expansion later in case I want to go higher (lets say i break my engine then get it built). I saw a thread somewhere on here where someone was making about 400rwhp but on the .63 version and he actually said he preferred the .87 as the .63 was to responsive (i like that nothing, nothing, BAM! feeling). As long as full boost is before 4k I would be happy.

Edited by rinmak
Thats some good power. Out of interest, when "Pro" is used in conjunction with HKS turbos does it generally just mean they are internally gated or are there some other important differences?

not sure :/

the turbo is great, with a retune (11:1afr at the moment) im hoping for around 350rwhp @ 16psi, looking to drop some tomie pon-cams and headgasket in the future and see what is makes around the 18-20psi mark hopfully high 300hp

Garrett makes no sense to me.. :/

Is this a GT30R?

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod18.htm

Would you suggest the .82 exhaust housing? Its alot cheaper than a HKS item which makes it tempting. Are there any major differences between them or are you just paying for the badge with the HKS one?

Edited by rinmak
my tuner made 404rwhp @ 1.38 bar with it...dyno in rb25 results thread........i wanted the pro s tuner said wait for gtrs..

that is very impressive from a GTRS..

265rwkw @ 15psi, modest tune due to standard internals, with 2835 pro s...

extremely happy with lag, drivability, power delivery..

Any comments on this turbo guys? Is this the GT30R Slide mentioned earlier?

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod18.htm

Its a fair bit cheaper than the HKS 3037S so if it can do the same job that would be awesome. Would you guys recommend this turbo in .82 for a 350-400rwhp 25?

HUh??? maybe cuz its new and not many people have wacked big cams in with em etc etc...or the tune is safe.....cuz with just the turbo i only made 250....theres a 1st time for evrything.

Maybe, i'd like to see at least one other car make 300rwkw/20psi though.

Any comments on this turbo guys? Is this the GT30R Slide mentioned earlier?

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod18.htm

Its a fair bit cheaper than the HKS 3037S so if it can do the same job that would be awesome. Would you guys recommend this turbo in .82 for a 350-400rwhp 25?

The Rb25 turbo upgrade thread in forced induction shows a few results with this turbo.

Its quite common to see 265-275rwkw at 16-17 psi

Power just seems to hit you when you want it whilst drifting i have found.

The GT30R (GT3076) is not the same turbo as the 3037s listed in the link above.

It is rated to the same power how ever has a .70a/r compressor cover usually found on the GT3040 etc rather then the .60 on the GT30R.

Yes I agree , I've never yet seen a real GT3076R with a .70 A/R compressor housing . You could nearly bet that thing is either a GT3040R (GT3082R) or one of the victim grade GT30+ TO4S compressor wheeled horrors .

With the real GT3076R's (cartridge wise same as HKS's GT3037's) the power rating is claimed to be 450 and 480 PS for the 52 and 56 trim compressors in Garretts TO4E .60 A/R port shrouded compressor housing .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...