Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks for the input jerome,better post up your mods and the performance results after fmic install,and buy the way can anyone enlighten me to the benifits of returnfeed over conventional piping,is there any diff in length? would one have more lag than the other? has any stagea owner noticed lag after upgrade? ....maybe a 33 owner might be able to answer my nosey questions

yea will do just gona keep the mods basick . fmic , pod , 3inch exaust turbo back boost controll and looking at geting a haltec interceptor ecu(piggyback) then get her on the dyno.didnt notice any major lag issues with new fmic

yea will do just gona keep the mods basick . fmic , pod , 3inch exaust turbo back boost controll and looking at geting a haltec interceptor ecu(piggyback) then get her on the dyno.didnt notice any major lag issues with new fmic

Hi Jerome,

did u have to relocate the washer bottle?

any btw...does the cooler piping touch the radiator hose?...coz not sure if over period if it rubs..might wear the radiator hose thin...dont want the hose bursting unexpectedly.

Well its christmas time and I had a free day to stick my front mount in!

The install went pretty well. I bought a cheap Just Jap R33 kit, and suprisingly everything lined up pretty well.

I had to make my own lower brackets that were longer than the ones provided, and dropped the intercooler 30mm to ensure it would fit under the top of the front bar. Other than that it all came together much quicker than I expected!

Now it has brought up a few little problems!

I had to remove my windscreen washer pump and bottle to make way for the piping! So now i cant clean my windows! Has anyone had this problem, and know of a good solution? like a smaller bottle that works?

It now hits boost cut all the time too! so i had to put the standard little brass restrictor back in the vacume to the turbo. Will an SAFC II be able to overide boost cut? I understand the ECU takes a value from the AFM to determin the cut off...

Also I cant run the intake feed for the standard air box because it fouls the new piping...

I dont really want to run a pod, because they are loud and i want to keep this thing as sleeper and stealth as possible, but it looks like i have no choice, does anyone know a quiet pod? (haha a weird question i know!)

Any help here would be awesome! thanks guys!

Ben.

cooler%20small.jpg

i fitted mine today i turned the washer bottle around so its a side mount now lol had to modify the brackets etc but fitted in ok and still the filler neck is in the stock position i also modified the intake scoop by heating it wit a hot air gun till is soft then fitted it on and pushed down on it and now fits like stock and dont look like its been modified at all ill post pics when i get a chance .

hey mike, did you move the trans cooler and convert to electric fan?

Im looking at doing my FMIC soon. Any other things to watch out for?

left tranny cooler in place and trimmed the fan blades a little to clear the top pipe i had to bring the fmic out a little to clear the cooler which ment i had to cut into the bar a little more than usual but it worked out fine

Nice work there lads.

Im using the Apexi fmic suited for a 180sx, its a return air feed type, its made of both Tube-and-Fin and Bar-and-Plate design, so got the best of both worlds.

There is no noticeble extra lag worthy of mentioning after the install (maybe a touch, but thats as to be expected). Once tuned tho the car performed very well.

Now with the higflow turbo on, awaiting a tune, I expect it'll perform better, lol :pwned:

I also have an ARC return feed type frontmount, and i cant notice any more lag at all then when i had the standard intercooler, and i am making as much power as anyone else with same mods ie: Alex and he had a gtr cooler, in my opinion there is less piping with a return feed cooler than there is with the other type so technically there should be more lag with the other setup

Simon

left tranny cooler in place and trimmed the fan blades a little to clear the top pipe i had to bring the fmic out a little to clear the cooler which ment i had to cut into the bar a little more than usual but it worked out fine

neat job on the snorkel by mike (and mitch).

  • 3 weeks later...
post-26949-1171185291.jpg fitted up my fmic and when i removed the stock pipework there was a small hose that comes from what looks like a solonoid on a compressor and conected to the pipe that feeds the plenum it had a smaller pipe pressed into it to which the rubber hose im refering to was atatched.the new pipe fittings do not have provision for this .....where do i connect it now? any ideas guys????? Edited by mike40sydney

a few ideas...

GREDDY INTAKE PLENUM...

no piping over the fan, 1m less piping... better response!

easier to get to spark plugs...

Thats what i'll be doing when it comes time to upgrade the Stagea!... indeed

just a more expensive way to do it.. but better in the long run!

Tony B

YNOTSX?!

.. the radiator hose is touching but theres not much pressure there...

I think you'll find that 'Pressure' is not the governing factor - vibration is. If the pipe and hose are touching they will rub and wear through. If you can zip tie them to stay apart, then zip tie them together firmly. Better still, cut up a 2 inch length of old hose and wrap it around the radiator hose - held by zip ties, at the point were the hose and pipe touch, this will act as a barrier that it has to wear through before it gets down to the radiator hose.

Edited by 3intheBack
there was a small hose that comes from what looks like a solonoid on a compressor and conected to the pipe that feeds the plenum it had a smaller pipe pressed into it to which the rubber hose im refering to was atatched.the new pipe fittings do not have provision for this .....where do i connect it now? any ideas guys?????

The extra hose you now have is the one that goes to the power steering pump, - I would assume it controls a pressure switch that bleeds off excess fluid pressure at high revs - otherwise you would loose all feel in the steering at high speed.

Since it works by reading the boost pressure in the intake plenum, you simply need install a T piece into some other line that is registering boost pressure. They will have given you a spare metre of hose with the kit.

I joined it into the line that runs from the turbo to the boost controller since it was close by.

Personally I am not sure if this alters the boost pressure signal going to the boost controller - which would be a bad thing.

Or you could run in over the top of the motor and attach it to one of the nipples that you would use for the boost gauge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...