Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just got back from stylyn audio (place in melb Chris Rogers recomm)

Have booked in:

M80AU + Internal Siren + Central locking hookup + labour = $630

Will give the internal siren a drop ( -$50) as it's not really needed.

Is the ultrasonic worth the extra money? Or should I just go the M80G?

Cheers

Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148847-m80-is-it-worth-the-au/
Share on other sites

the ultrasonic unit has 2 sensors judging by their pic. Does this get placed on the dashboard somewhere visible or where is the common place for them. I could always ask but stylyn but posting on SAU is easier :P

Cheers

from my experience the ultrasonic sensors are more a pain the ass than anything else. I would just go for the glass break and not worry about the ultrasonic. If you lock your car all the time (which I would hope you would) then there is no need for the ultrasonic, coz they will have to break a windows or open a door to get into the car, both of which will set of the alarm anyhow.

Even thou you can set the sensitivity on most ultrasonic sensors, I used to get most people coming back a few weeks after installing the alarm ask me to turn it off or pu the sensitivity as low as possible. Just due to they pick up any movement in the car. For instance you lock a flying bug in the car, the snesor will pick it up if it moves after the alarm has armed, also things like sun blinds falling down etc. Just a pain in the ass in my opinion.

the ultrasonic unit has 2 sensors judging by their pic. Does this get placed on the dashboard somewhere visible or where is the common place for them. I could always ask but stylyn but posting on SAU is easier :P

Cheers

both sides of th dash.

the above post is why I do not sell them.

To answer your Q...

I had an ultrasonic sensor in my VN Calais, and it was hidden under the plastic near the gear shifter. From my experience, they will work through plastic and can be hidden, but will not work through metal.

had a chat with the staff at stylyn.

They mentioned that if you have window tint, and the window is hit it wont shatter as the tint is holding the broken peices. So the mic may not detect the hit and removal of the tinted window.

Also, you can arm the alarm with the windows down and anyone who sticks their arm through would trigger the alarm.

This would be useful if you at petrol station and dont want to put windows back up and similar scenario's.

I'll stick with the ultrasonic and keep sau updated on my experience :/

Cheers

update:

Got alarm fitted today by stylyn, couldnt be happier, cant say the same for my neighbours as im testing this out :)

Have to get used to the 2 ultrasonic sensors infront of my face :thumbsup:

What are some good features to enable on the mongoose?

ignition door lock, last door arming, perimeter nite lite etc.

Anyone had experience or just leave it all set on default.

Thanks

update:

Got alarm fitted today by stylyn, couldnt be happier, cant say the same for my neighbours as im testing this out :(

Have to get used to the 2 ultrasonic sensors infront of my face :P

What are some good features to enable on the mongoose?

ignition door lock, last door arming, perimeter nite lite etc.

Anyone had experience or just leave it all set on default.

Thanks

just leave it standard. send me a PM and I'll tell you a few things :D

Spent a couple of days testing the alarm, ie kicking the tyre :), sticking hand through window etc and it all works.

One thing which is worrying me is in the manual, mongoose has a lights on warning. Where it beeps if you leave your lights on and arm the car.

I tested this but no siren/noise was made to alert me that the lights were still on...

Do i have to wait a couple of minutes for a voltage drop in order for the siren to chirp or is something not working?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...