Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have a 96 series 2 r33 (90,000 on clock) If I don't sell it I plan on an engine upgrade around 6K limit.

Should I rebuild or go a few bolt on's?

I don't know how long these engines live for. I have only run 12psi into it, runs stock boost most days or around 9-10 some weekends.

It has 3''inch turbo back

front mount

and high flow'd fuel pump

So should I go 1.

turbo

ecu

clutch

afm

injectors

OR rebuild it? If a rebuild is on the cards what sort of rebuild?

Cheers,

Russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/
Share on other sites

turbo - 1.7k

ECU - 1k

Clutch - 1k

afm - 300

injectors - 900

So thats 5k without labour, tuning or anything else so you'll come close to 6k by the time thats done

Simply put... the motor will last if the tune is good and you service it correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2779057
Share on other sites

I would leave out the injectors for now if you have a decent fuel pump.

Apart from that the rest is spot on...thats will give u 600-900 bucks extra for labour.

Other things to look for are suspension upgrades...say the whiteline kit..just to make it more driveable and fun to hammer around corners..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2779090
Share on other sites

To sell a '96 Skyline and to pay $6000 on top to buy an '89 Skyline really seems bit of a backward step IMHO.. although its a GTR (approx 180aw/kw stock) , you still gonna spend $5000 on exhaust, ECU, Tune .etc. to get it to the same power level as it would if he spent $6000 on his GTST...

With a highflow turbo, ECU, Tune, Injectors, EBC and Cams... RB25DET's have seen pushing 250+rw/kw

The way i look at it, how would the owner of a stockish R32/R33 GTR, RX7, Supra or STI feel if a stock looking GTST smashed him off the lights?

My 2c

Regards,

Sarkis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2779289
Share on other sites

turbo - $800 - slide

ECU - $1K - PFC (probably 2nd hand for this price nowdays)

AFM - $350 w/ plug - anywhere

injectors - $550 - Deatchwerks

clutch - $460 - C & B

not including labour or tune - $3160

oh, and then spend some money on your brakes

Edited by Lazy-Bastard
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2779311
Share on other sites

Yes i know that Bernard however, as an everyday driver your car see's more traffic lights then it does christmas tree's (lights at the drag strip) and if he was going to build a car just for the track, then an RB26/30 settup with powerglide box and 3500 stall, stripped interior .etc. will bring him in the 9 sec bracket... however this isnt the case... as for streetable performance, and $6000 to spend... a GTST can go a long way and yet maintain drivability as well as a MUCH cheaper insurance premium than the GTR..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2779358
Share on other sites

The way i look at it, how would the owner of a stockish R32/R33 GTR..... feel if a stock looking GTST smashed him off the lights?

My 2c

Regards,

Sarkis

Not going to happen unless the GTR is un well.

Not hard to have a fairly stock R32 GTR running low 12's.

As for smashing the GTR off the lights... well we all know that only happens on the drag strip with slicks on.

Having owned both the GTR and R33 gtst I can say the former offers a different driving experience... a far better one.

However $6k is about 3 years of a regular GTR maintence budget, thats just to keep it running. Having a GTST makes for cheaper long term ownership. It just isn't a GTR at the end of the day but, neither is the monthly bill. Plenty of people buy GTR's and soon find out that they can't actually afford to run them. Don't let people suck you in just on how great GTR's are without looking at the real money they cost you.

I now drive an R32 GTST for the record, I like what it does for the budget.

Edited by rev210
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2779631
Share on other sites

yeh I'll use a q45afm how much?

I plan on kkr 430 turbo, ecu remap (r32 with vct chip) 550cc/740cc injectors, z32/q45 afm,and clutch. but with a rb25 with 90,000 do you think it'll live long on say 230-250rwkw

I'm also thnkin save some cash and leave the injectors and afm stock should still get 230rwkw rite?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2779765
Share on other sites

yeh I'll use a q45afm how much?

I plan on kkr 430 turbo, ecu remap (r32 with vct chip) 550cc/740cc injectors, z32/q45 afm,and clutch. but with a rb25 with 90,000 do you think it'll live long on say 230-250rwkw

I'm also thnkin save some cash and leave the injectors and afm stock should still get 230rwkw rite?

you will be maxing the stock AFM out around those figures...not sure exactly but do ur tuner a favor and get a VG30 AFM at least. They fit properly but u need to adapter the plug from memory.

740cc innjectors would run at about 40% duty cyle with ur supporting mods...dont bother I have much more power with 550cc SARDs and they never really get over 80%.

Get a powerFC as a minimum...not sure about thats turbo but if its small and will spool hard quickly then go fo it.

Clutch..wait for ur current one to die then replace...not point replacing one if its still working IMO...unless u want to sell it, personally I just kill them and buy a new one..if your only running ~230 it will last for a while depending on how u drive it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2779984
Share on other sites

turbo - $800 - slide

ECU - $1K - PFC (probably 2nd hand for this price nowdays)

AFM - $350 w/ plug - anywhere

injectors - $550 - Deatchwerks

clutch - $460 - C & B

not including labour or tune - $3160

oh, and then spend some money on your brakes

These injectors, are they made by Deatchwerks? is it lik saying im installing nismo injectors, instead im installing Deatchwerks injectors? has anyone used them? what are they lik? cos i lik the price.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148987-6k/#findComment-2780013
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...