Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

um no i dont have one really that i could lend you but you can just go buy one make sure it has a warranty then if you swap it over and the prob is still there just take it back and say its faulty.im not 100% sure if they can be electroncally tested maybe someone on here knows.but yeah good suggestion is to advance it first and see how you go.

thanks for the info, i think i will try a differnet cas and see if that fixes anything. its worth a try i guess.

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

just a quick question, is it that the car is just plain slow, or is it a start/stop/start/stop type of thing?

No its a start then stop thing. The tubo spools as normal but car serverley hisitates, almost undrivable, cant really take it over 2.5-3k

I dropped it into F.I.S.T. performance as they are local and one of the few workshops open today and the only works shop who would take the car with such little notice.

So fingers crossed i get it sorted and i will report back as to what the problem is.

I have found other posts with similar issues to what i experience but when they get it fixed no body reports how they fixed it :(

Hey guys! got it back from FIST performace, guys there where great very knowledgable.

Okay when it came in on the dyno it made 128rwhp.

List of things fixed.

- I had a busted fuel pressure regulator

- MY airflow meter was no good!! i tried 2 sensors previously and also resoldered one but that didnt solve it.

- Timming, The cas seems to be in a very advanced position, Tuner said for some reason this car needed a lot of timing to do anything. I know the car has had a rebuild from previous owner with pistons but thats all i know.

- boost 11psi

When it was sorted on the dyno it ran 270.9 RWHP or 202.1 RWKW.

Air fuel ratio varied from about 11.8 - 10. Tuner said it still runs very rich.

I have a SAFC neo comming so that should help things in that respect.

Does any one know why my car needs more timing than a normal r33?

And what do you guys think about the power figures? any thoughts?

Total aftermaket mods to this stage are,

- pod filter

- metal intake pipe

- walbro fuel pump

- FMIC delta fin style. piping is hybrid copy.

- dual stage turbo xs boost controller(low 9psi- high 11psi)

- GFB BOV switchable plumb back type.

Thanks for every ones ideas on this thread!

Are the Cams different?

Thats good power for 11psi.

It was more than just one thing wrong, no wonder you couldnt get it right.

I pretty happy :P

As far as i know the cams are stock, The previous owner claimed a rebuild and showed me some photocopy of a trade reciept for acl pistons but npothing else so i am doubtful if it is legit.

The Timing belt was changed a few months ago.

"R33S2" are u asking if the cams are differnet because the CAS seems to be in the far advanced position? im curious as to why this is too?

Yeah two things wrong makes it hard to diagnose, expecially when i ruled out airflow meter my trying two and resoldering one.

Cheers

I pretty happy :P

As far as i know the cams are stock, The previous owner claimed a rebuild and showed me some photocopy of a trade reciept for acl pistons but npothing else so i am doubtful if it is legit.

The Timing belt was changed a few months ago.

"R33S2" are u asking if the cams are differnet because the CAS seems to be in the far advanced position? im curious as to why this is too?

Yeah two things wrong makes it hard to diagnose, expecially when i ruled out airflow meter my trying two and resoldering one.

Cheers

it can mean a few things, aftermarket cams, timing belt fitted right??, qoute me if i'm wrong guys.

Check your Timing Belt Tensioner, they are a spring loaded mechanism from what i remember, if its broken timing belt could be far from taught and the reason you need to run spastic timing, if the covers are on your tuner wouldnt have seen shit.

Good to hear you got it sorted :P

Not surprised the AFM was a problem, but it's quite rare for the stock fuel pressure reg to die in my (limited) experience. I suppose they're not getting any younger so things are going to start playing up.

Dunno about the timing thing - maybe the cams have been timed, ie one or both have been advanced or retarded, so compared to where the CAS normally sits it might be a degree or two out. I'm probably completely off the mark but that's my best guess :rofl:

Your not wrong about these cars not getting any younger,

If it is the timing belt pretensioners woulnd they maybe casue the belt to slip? some times at idle there is a wirring sort of squiggle noise from the cas area. The cas bearings are fine so it may be a pretentioner?

Edited by tmc_2

maybe the timing belt has jumped a tooth on 1 of the cams. how many k's on the car (in total, not just since rebuild). it may be that when the engine was rebuilt they didn't replace the timing belt, and it is due to be changed.

my mates 180sx that is having similar problems is overdue for its second timing belt (its done over 200,000ks). we have to keep the timing fully advanced to get it to perform. we tried jumping a tooth with the cas and it was way too advanced. we think the timing belt may have jumped a tooth.

maybe the timing belt has jumped a tooth on 1 of the cams. how many k's on the car (in total, not just since rebuild). it may be that when the engine was rebuilt they didn't replace the timing belt, and it is due to be changed.

my mates 180sx that is having similar problems is overdue for its second timing belt (its done over 200,000ks). we have to keep the timing fully advanced to get it to perform. we tried jumping a tooth with the cas and it was way too advanced. we think the timing belt may have jumped a tooth.

total kays are 125thou , timming belt done at 117thou and rebuild i am gussing some where between 90 to 110thou.

SO u htink its worth getting then to check the timming belt is its alligned correctly?

Will it be fine to just leave alone?

thans Mad082

so u've still got the stock ecu? prolly best to get a power fc (or other) and get it tuned properly. i.e lean it out a bit, then you'll also be able to pull some timing out. it'll go harder, and it wont chew as much fuel >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...