Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't know if anyone is as stupid as me to do it, but I think I may have.

I had to replace the top section of the dash in the 32. Went through all fine and perfect, until we put it back together and figured the speedo was now not working.

First assumption was "Oh, its not connected properly, shouldnt be a big drama"

Anyway, we took it back off on the weekend (after having HICAS dramas) and I think I farked it. The little tip that connects to the cluster (removable plastic thing) has become removed from the back of the cluster and is wedged in the hole where the speedo usually connects..and I tried my ass off trying to get it out but because there's so much lubrication shit in there u cant get a grip on it (pliers, pins, flat head screwdrivers etc) my mate even tried his vacuum LMAO and it still wouldnt come out.

Anyhow.. has anyone had a similar problem to this and how much would it cost to fix if so??

I need to try and get it done ASAP because after about 10 mins of driving my HICAS shits itself and I loose a lot of power in the steering. Its hackable but its not great ;).

Does anyone also know if this HICAS problem would go hand in hand with no speedo?

Cheers (Sorry, I have NFI about skylines, my last cars were commodores)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149490-i-think-i-screwed-my-cluster/
Share on other sites

Hey dude. I read through your post a few times but not 100% on what happened. Did the lug at the end of the speedo cable break off and is now stuck in the back of the dash cluster?

No speedo input will cause HICAS to stuff up as HICAS does different things at low/mid/high speeds.

Here's a pic of the back of my dash cluster - where did this lug go?

Mark

post-14114-1167719948.jpg

Sorry, i'm pretty hopeless when trying to explain something technically.

Basically that little piece that joins the speedo (the cable that controls the speedo) has come detached and has been pushed into the hole that it would usually sit in whilst connected to the speedo.

Also, HICAS has only be playing up since this has happened.. its really strange

Edited by Yidz

same thing happened to me. The plastic thing is supposed to stay attached to the speedo cable

Go for a little drive to see if that white plastic piece still spins inside the white cup. If it does, then it just slides into the cluster and turns the speedo

If it isnt turning you can re-sleeve it with a straw which will make the whole assembly a tight fit again. Other people have superglued it back in place. But you must make sure the plastic tip is pressed hard into the speedo cable and stays there so it has no choice but to turn with the cable.

I dunno if thats clear enough but if you have questions just ask and ill be able to answer them cause ive just done exactly the same thing a month back

Nah that little plastic piece is away from the cluster and in the hole where the speedo cable is. Its really small and it goes all the way into the speedo cable.

I originally thought it was suppose to be connected to the cluster or is it suppose to be in the hole in the speedo cable?

Either way, the plastic piece is in too far into that hole.. and I cant get anything to wedge it out if you understand what i mean because its not making a connection from the speedo cable to the cluster.

Sorry if I'm making it hard to understand..

its supposed to be where it is. a little spring should sit inbetween it and the cable which pushes it out far enough so it can interlock in the cluster.

go for a drive and if it spins, then it should be able to turn the cluster once you put it back together properly

its supposed to be where it is. a little spring should sit inbetween it and the cable which pushes it out far enough so it can interlock in the cluster.

go for a drive and if it spins, then it should be able to turn the cluster once you put it back together properly

its supposed to be where it is. a little spring should sit inbetween it and the cable which pushes it out far enough so it can interlock in the cluster.

Ok I think you have picked it.. When we took the cluster out the spring must have fallen out somewhere, as I know that isn't there, hence why that plastic piece has gone too far in the speedo cable, because its gone into the smaller hole that the spring must take up.

It must be pretty tiny to fit through that hole and we must have misplaced it.

The dash is all back together as I had to drive it a few times in between, but im 99% sure thats what would of happened.

I havent vacuumed the car since so hopefully with a bit of luck its fallen onto the floor or something :P

Its pretty easy to do if you have some basic knowledge of your car. The cable simply bolts into the drivers side of the gearbox. There are some clips that hold it in place that easily come out. The cable enters the cabin about half-way up the fire wall, roughly in-line with your knees. Its a small black triangle with three bolts if i remeber correctly. The end is exactly what you see when you remove the cluster. The attachment that goes into the back is simply held in place behind the dash. Its pretty easy to remove. I wouldn't pay someone to do it but it depends on how confident you are working on your car. I've put some pics in. Look for the black plastic thing on the firewall.

post-29295-1167874007.jpg

post-29295-1167874077.jpg

post-29295-1167874128.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...