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Hey guys, wont introduce myself again..

Anyway just a quick Question .. took the R33 for a spin, and it stalled on me twice .. so im abit like 'wtf?'

The first time i had slowed down to around a creep at the traffic lights.. and bang! it stalled on me...

The second time I was doing a 3 point turn, and hey! there we go again.

Im new to the Skyline engine.. (spent abit of time on the CA18de and the SR20DET)

I'm just confused as to why this happened? any idea?

Edit: Sorry if this is the wrong section, I coudnt find the right one.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14984-r33-stalling-problem/
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Hey mindflux.

i am having the same problem now and again,

is it stalling on you soon after starting up from cold or all the time?

i dont have an aftermarket BOV so its not that, it usually happens when i let the clutch out all the way when driving slow and come into neutral when its cold but after about 2 minutes it dosnt happen

i've also got a theory about the fuel, cause it was happening a lot when the tank was close to empty, i filled up yesterday an we'll see.

Mine was doing the same thing when I first bought it. Put the clutch in when slowing for a red light for example and it would conk out.

They replaced some kind of valve, I think it was the thing mounted near the intake plenum and throttle body. Cylinder about 5cm long and 2 cm dia.???

sorry I can't be more specific. It fixed the problem anyway.

(moved to Maintenance :mad:)

Jimbo sounds the same..

I dont have an aftermarket BOV, infact i dont even have one .. maybe just a stock one.

the tank was on empty when it happened

i did just by the car

and on one instance i did happen when i was slowing for a light.

I'll take it for a spin and by the end onf the weekend i'm hoping it should be fine.

**hears unsolved mysteries music**

Guest pippen24

I had this problem too. Hardcore stalling my 97 Spec II. It was horrible. I would try to park and stall like 5 times. Even around corners at low speeds, during the turn.... *stall* loose power steering, it was facked!

Got it serviced to fix it, they claimed nothing was wrong I told them to fang around the city for a bit and see it goes. They did that and immedeitly noticed a huge stalling problem. They took it back, retuned it, checked all meters, o2's sensors and all that fun stuff. Found no problems. Once they returned it was, it was sweet as. No stalling it. They claimed they fixed nothing.

I think the general tuneup fixed it.

Give it a crack

I had the same problem not long after putting the aftermarket BOV on. it was fine for awhile (bout a week) then it started stalling same as you guys. I found that it did it more often with the headlights on, so I got the battery checked and "apparrntly" it was farked, (I think it was the OG battery too! LMAO)

Once I replaced the battery it didnt do it again!?!?!?!?! Got me buggered !!!!

BTY, got a digital voltmeter thingy wired in, and its quite amazing just to see how much differnece there really is in the way of voltage supply whilst driving in traffic, from 11.4V - 14.4 !

There have been heaps of posts on this subject.

I think that this problem has happened in evertything from silvas to skylines. Nissan engineers in their wisdom wired the fuel pump to recieve 1/2 the normal current when the car was at idle. This means when you take your foot off the gas the fuel pump starts to lose power. As the pump gets older and worn it needs more current to supply the fuel required. This starves the car of fuel causing a stall.

However I have heard fixes that range from changing the O2 sensor, cleaning the AFM, changing the fuel pump or fuel filter and even ECU reset. I reckon the best is to start with the basics and work your way up.

Do a search you'll see heaps of posts on this topic!

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest VuDuDoc
Originally posted by sfitzy

There have been heaps of posts on this subject.

I think that this problem has happened in evertything from silvas to skylines. Nissan engineers in their wisdom wired the fuel pump to recieve 1/2 the normal current when the car was at idle. This means when you take your foot off the gas the fuel pump starts to lose power. As the pump gets older and worn it needs more current to supply the fuel required. This starves the car of fuel causing a stall.  

However I have heard fixes that range from changing the O2 sensor, cleaning the AFM, changing the fuel pump or fuel filter and even ECU reset. I reckon the best is to start with the basics and work your way up.

can you explain more on the fuel pump thing? i mean how would you know or trouble shoot that. my car sputters and tries to die alot....al is good though. i just got done messing with a bunch of stuff. i know my rail pressure was stuck at 55psi at idle causing a serious bog. i installed the nismo AFPR and lowered my fuel pressure to 37psi and now the car wants to stall more so. its like after im on the gas and let off theres no fuel getting delivered. if i try to cruise the car bogs until higher rpms then the car try to buck you in to the back seat....i mean wtf.

Guest downward-spiral

I reckon this one sounds most likely:

Originally posted by sfitzy

My car has this problem as well, Here are my ideas on the subject..

I have noticed that my stalls only occur when I have my headlights and other electrical devices on or when I have little petrol in the tank. It rarely happens during the day.  

I then noticed that the battery in my car is rated at 280 CCA, which is miles to small for a Skyline.  

What I think happens is when you have your lights on and stereo going and come off the gas at 3000rpm. As the Revs drops so does the current coming out of the alternator, when you go below 850-1000 rpm your alternator can't supply enough current for the whole car. Then fuel pump doesn't get enought current and then you stall.  

I have also noticed that the car doesn't stall when I have a full tank of petrol. This is because of the fuel level in the tank, the more fuel the more downward pressure (due to the effect of gravity on the liquid) on the pump (or for the engineers in the audience NPSH). As the level drops this pressure reduces and makes it hard for the pump to work effectively. This combined with low current from the battery and a clogged fuel filter will make a car stall.

I'm going to replace the battery with a 520 CCA model some time this week and replace the fuel filter thie weekend. Should sort it out. (Sorry about the long post peoples)

  • 2 weeks later...

I don't know if anyone is still reading this thread... anyway, I have driven around with the new battery for a week. When I have the lights on and shit the bugger still stalls! But I just changed the plugs over and found that the gap on them is huge!! 1.1 mm stock my arse! put new plugs in and its running really well. Really happy with the way the the engine is running. Hasn't stalled on me yet! Next thing to change is the fuel filter...

Guest VuDuDoc

Im still tracking it. I went and put in higher octane gas and that made a big difference........till i stopped at a light and the car wanted to die. i dont have problem with power(electricity wise). what ive noticed is a total lack of responce no matter where the gas pedal is at. when starting off in first from dead stop it sputters and ill push my pedal to the floor and still the same rate of acceleration. i really do believe the fuel pump thing. it seems as if the car is stuck at idle. there is no variation when manipulating the accelerator. from 0-5psi there is a dead zone after that im slamming into my seat cause of riding my accelerator .:( i looked at my voltage on my temp sensor as well warmed up and it ran at 1.3v totally warmed up. Ive also noticed when cold the car idles 100-200 rpm high and after warmed up will start to sputter leading me to believe its a component somewhere in this cycle or the pump voltage. any ideas aside from general maintenance or does anyone have the values for the temp sensor as im curious if that might be the case.

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