Jump to content
SAU Community

What Is A Sway Bar For?

joese7en7
 Share

Recommended Posts

Don Juan Apprentice

Don Juan

Posted
Posted

Front or rear?

It just adds more stability to the chasis, so the car has less bodyroll.

You won't notice it much unless you are really pushing the car though. I put a rear one on just last week and the car has alot more potential in the mountain roads.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Also called an anti-roll bar. Designed to reduce body roll when cornering.

You could get the same effect by fitting heavier springs, but that would increase the overall harshness in the ride. Sway / Anit-roll bars achieve the result without increasing ride stiffness.

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

Swaybars/anti-roll bars/stabilizer bars have the sole purpose of resisting roll and do this VERY effectively.

Don Juan: I think you are thinking of strut tower braces. You definitely can notice the difference aftermarket swaybars straight away

$weetDreamZ Enthusiast

$weetDreamZ

Posted
Posted

Swaybars reduce body roll by changing the leaning movement (ie body roll) to a twisting movement that is taken up by the swaybar. So instead of the car leaning from side to side as you go through corners the swaybar twists. This results in a flatter ride when you go around corners and makes for a much more exciting drive =)

It is a balancing act to determine if it is better to have or not to have. No real right or wrong as it depends largely on your car, its setup and the way you drive. As a guide you'll feel it is effective up to a point and then if you keep going to a thicker bar it can become overkill. Not to mention the physical factors such as having appropriate mounting points and hardware so the swaybar doesn't rip out of the chassis.

  • 2 months later...
sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
Posted

What $weetDreamz said made me wonder: Which skylines (if any) have sway bars in stock form, and (more importantly to me) does a stock R33 S2 GTST have mounts for swaybars? I'm considering putting some in and want to know if it will be an addition, or merely a replacement of existing parts.

Cheers.

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted
What $weetDreamz said made me wonder: Which skylines (if any) have sway bars in stock form, and (more importantly to me) does a stock R33 S2 GTST have mounts for swaybars? I'm considering putting some in and want to know if it will be an addition, or merely a replacement of existing parts.

Cheers.

Its a replacement of the existing sway bars.

all skylines & majority of all cars come with factory sway bars.

It'll just be heavier duty sway bars you'll be installing.

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

swaybar = the best handling modification you can do on a skyline that has standard suspension.

I have an R32 gtst and it suffered terribly from understeer and turn in was sloppy at reasonable speed going thru a sweeping corner.

I fitted a whiteline adjustable swaybar to the rear and set it to medium. with zero other changes the handling has been transformed. my turn in is now fantastic and the cornerspeed is a lot higher

the whole feeling is a lot better. at first it was a bit scary because i was not used to being able to put the car into the corner at the 20% higher speed but after a few days i got used to it and love it :thumbsup:

only took 45 min to fit and was one of the best $$$ to performance mod.

skylinegtts Experienced

skylinegtts

Posted
Posted

So from ive been reading soo far.

It would be far better for me to get front and rear adjustable swaybars compared to getting some lower springs?

Ive currently just got some KYB shocks and just some urathane bushes. If the swaybars are that much better, after getting them would lower springs make a big difference in terms of ride harsness vs handling, ie would the handling out weigh the increased ride harshness

Cheers

Stephen

Xander Apprentice

Xander

Posted
Posted
So from ive been reading soo far.

It would be far better for me to get front and rear adjustable swaybars compared to getting some lower springs?

Ive currently just got some KYB shocks and just some urathane bushes. If the swaybars are that much better, after getting them would lower springs make a big difference in terms of ride harsness vs handling, ie would the handling out weigh the increased ride harshness

Cheers

Stephen

I would recommend the Adjustable Blade adjustable swaybars over lowered springs. The blade adjustable items from whiteline are great. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Chupapy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
×
×
  • Create New...