Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tint is for looks mate...i was trying to say don't worry about performance mode just yet. get your car smelling like a shag (bacause you just shagged some nice cuttie in it!) and then later on go faster. the chicks don't care how fast it goes.

on the alarm subject...i dunno mine is only 2-point immobilizer so i can't really talk about 7-point!

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i paid 300 fitted from hi-f supermarket its a zylux (same as code apparently but no name attached)

it has sound sensor so goes off it you hit/break the windows. alarm attached to boot/bonnet/doors

has back-up battery so if you etach the car battery then it will go off and you need the key to turn it off.

also remote central attached to that.

that was suffiient for me, but i'm not too paranoid as i don't have $2k work of goodies inside. if i get broken into i will break the arms and legs of everyone within a 1km radius - that's my fix for any problems!

yeah! violence is absolutely the way to go!. lol. soooo tru. yeah $300 that sounds alright. Well I think there's way way sufficent, but I'm keen on that microwave detection thingy, where u get a blinker even when someone touches ur car. The minute i see the blinker go off .... I'll be there with my baseball bat ready to swing... hehehehhehe .... sounds good dude. but those generic brand alarm system reliable?

well its actually made by code which is a v.good brand but its their second brand that they make so its the same electronices apparently but different gizmo's (ie doesn't have the fancy sh1t that code stuff has). This one actually gives a warning beep if you lift the handle or hit the car - it has a shock sensor and you can get them to make it as sensitive as you want. i made it so that if i'm parked and someone with a 5" exhaust hoons part the alarm doesn't go off, but if there is soneone who hits the car with a trolley or tries to key the car then it goez bezzerk! sufficient for a student who is lacking $$$ and needs something.

if you have hi-fi supermarket up there in brizzie then check them out and wait for a sale (i did - got $150 off inc installation!). i don't think the car needs to turn into a robot and rape the would-be robber just because they were 5m away and had an indecent thought about stealing the car. there's got to be a limit.

yeah true tru .... nice. that wat i want. I wanna know if someone touches my car .... for the obviously wrong reason. I never knew u could change the sensitivity of it. I hate cars where alarms go off when ppl just accidentally tap it. BUt i presume if someone touched ur skyline, u wouldnt be too happy. no one would be lol. I"M A PARNOID ONE .... lol cool thanks for the advice, dont think we do have hi-fi supermarket, we have JB-HI FI.... they r pretty large too. THe sercurity u said u have is 2 point? .... i thought it 2 point was less sophisticated then that???

2 point is just the immobilizer which is one component of the alarm. you may even be able to upgrade that part of it...i dunno.

jb hi fi is a bit more expensive than hi-fi and i don't think they stock many cheaper items - only those over 500 or those that are that sh1t that you don't want it.

Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

if you have hi-fi supermarket up there in brizzie then check them out and wait for a sale (i did - got $150 off inc installation!). i don't think the car needs to turn into a robot and rape the would-be robber just because they were 5m away and had an indecent thought about stealing the car. there's got to be a limit.

HAHAHAHAAHHA, nice thought, best laugh ive had for an hour.

just buy a decent alarm eg: maybe minumum 3 point imob, one with shock sensors and alarm on all openings/breakages etc. I still use my club lock even though i have a pretty decent alarm. Remember if a thief really wants your car and they know what they are doing these little things like alarms and club locks only act as a deterant. Hopefully they will steal the car next to you or steal your neighbours car instead.

my 0.02c

the seven point car alarm that KamikazeR33 is refering to is really a six point, i don't think he can count??? (it's cool i work with him), it's the Brant Nemesis model car alarm, it's worth $1098 installed or so i hope on Monday when it get's installed on my monster :-)

It features:

Remote codehopping operation + BRANTS famous PIN code entry system

Six (6) engine immobilisers

Dual siren system (one self powered siren outside – one inside)

Ultrasonic movement detectors + 2 stage impact shock sensors

Keyless entry

Electric window operation (option)

Remote panic

Passive immobilisation

Auto rearm in case of accidental switch off

False alarm lockout

Detects intrusion via doors, boot/hatch, bonnet, windows, sunroof + immobilises the engine in 6 places.

And much more…

then there's all the options u can put on if u got the $$$, pager system etc....

http://www.brant.com.au/html/nemesis.htm

hope this helps

tru, i personally dont think a 7 point immobiliser is necessary - turning my skyline into a robot prison, however the thought of losing it is like ...... erh invest the 1k and then everything SHOULD be alrite. but yeah me no insurance too :P

just remember that it has a pad to put ur pin into b4 u start the car....

ive heard of stories where ppl break into houses while ppl r asleep, take their keys and drive away.... now wif a pad that u gotta put ya pin into... they wont get very far drivin it unless they know the code

btw adrian u told me it was 7 point

anyways 6 is still good enough

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...