Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1994 R33,

I just turn my boost up to 11 pound using a single stage turbo smart boost controller. Since then I am having a problem with flat spots between 4,000 and 5,000 rpm. A mate of mine said that the R33's have factory boost limiters maped into the computers?

An suggestions would be helpfull.

Thanks...

Super AirFlow converter.. by Apexi.. it hooks into the oxygen and air flow meter sensors of the car and into the ECU .. basically a correction factor so the ECU "sees" less or more air than actually going in for each rev range. With a different reading "seen", the ECU adjusts the fuel mapping accordingly resulting in a richer or leaner mixture than factory. This generally can be used to give the car a 20-30% power increase with the right tuning.

Its what you use when you don't have a full aftermarket computer (around $1000 more) where the fuel maps (and other things) can be adjusted internally a lot more accurately. Hope that helps.

Thanks for your reply,

I was going to buy an after market computer. By reading your post above it looks like that will solve my problem.

Ps, Is it true that the standard R33 computer has a over boost restricter? because the problem only exists at 10 pound and over

Hi GunMetalR33, the issues and solutions are;

1. Over boost protection, the ECU cuts fuel and ignition when boost goes over 11 psi. Solution device called boost cut defeater. Cost a couple hundy.

2. 180 kph speed limiter, the ECU cuts fuel and ignition when the speed goes over 18o kph. Solution device called speed limit defeater. Cost a couple hundy.

3. Fuel mixture enrichment, the ECU increases the fuel supply as boost increases. Solution device called SAFC as explained above. Cost a few hundy.

4. Ignition timing retard, the ECU retards the ignition timing as boost increases. Solution device called ITC similar to SAFC except it modifies the timing signal such that the ECU does not retard the ignition. Cost a few hundy.

So if you add all these together you will find that the total cost ends up more than a Power FC. Particularly if you can pick up a used one. If you want to fix all of these issues we always recommend the PFC, if you are happy missing out on more than one fix then maybe the SAFC is worthwhile.

Hope that helps

Andrew (Jayson here :) ),

I was just thinking, it could be the gap in your plugs !!!

Damn, if I would've thought about that last night we could re-gapped them then :P

Seems your car is one of the rare ones that are totally stock, I'd say your plugs are still gapped at 1 or 1.1mm !!

Damn (hitting myself in the head), I should've thought about that !!

Cool, we can re-gap your plug's a little on the weekend and see how it goes?

J

  • 3 years later...

my car was stock.. but shite, after putting on exhuast and fmic... YOU CNT GO BACK !!!, soooOOOo much more efficient, seriously that smic is sooOOO shithouse its not funny....

Sorry I am new to forums & Skylines, what does SAFC mean?

ha ha ha, I cant believe I asked this type of question :)

Its amazing how much you can learn from this forum... I went from "What does SAFC mean" to installing after market ecu, turbo, injectors and clutch etc :)

man, this takes me back to the first couple of weeks that I had the car :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
×
×
  • Create New...