Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not saying you don't get advantages but there are much easier and cheaper ways to go about getting that extra response.

once those things have been done for sure look into it.

sorry to say lads but machineing and shimming buckets taking alot longer than they thought due to the increased lift. they a bit worried about bending valve shafts with the increased duration combined with vvt.

after a big weekend head will be back to me on monday, fingers crossed.

for anyone in the know what is a resonable price for a cam belt and a new set of bearings.

since the motor is apart anyway it makes sense to hit it all now.

obviously when you start running that sort of compression things wear alot faster if you don't do it right. thats why i've spent so much time on the head to get it right which left no money to balence the bottom end. with that in mind red line will probably be about 7500. if i can find a descent harmonic balancer i might stretch it out to 8000.

everything that i've done to date have been at a tune length. paid through the ass for tune length custom extractors. cams that have power band that line up with that and a port job that reflects that as well.

basically that means that it won't be the highest total hp i could have gotten but it will be the hardest accelerating and constatly be in power band when you drive it right.

I haven't seen an rb25 built to this extent and this quality so im interested to see what sort of power i get. i know that some of the boys here have ported rb30de's but lifting and machining buckets angel cutting all round and high compression to my knowledge hasn't been done.

if someone has seen this and can give me an idea of power to expect pleae let me no.

Sounds awesome mate cant wait for the results.

Performance Wholesales at slacks creek here in brissy sell speced up balancers for GTR's... pretty sure that it would be compatible, probably worth a look into.

yeah do you know what sort of price there talking?

not sure if it will be worth it at this stage. for longevity of the motor it probably is but outright speed i don't know it would be that benificial?

just got short shifter in and fitted it feels pretty nice. keen to see how she runs.

flywheel is now machined up and ready to go in. total weight 4.2kg. bit worried bout how she'll be driving around on the street but im sure once i learn how it feels it will be fine.

just checked up on head and its looking good for monday which means head goes on 20th tuned on the 23rd.

the exit runners on the head how important are they once you have a good set of pipes?

im tempted to tell the guy grind them out but not sure if its going to kill flow rather than help it.

has anyone here removed them and what sort of results did you see?

hell no thats just crazy. after market style all the way. started at 4.8kg just took bits and pieces out and balenced it with new clutch.

all the added power with such light weight fly clutch combo the short tail shaft of the sil big lsd and big tyres i can see my gearbox going boom if im not to careful.

sorry to disapoint boys but will be a few more days before engine is back together having trouble sourcing good quality idler bearing.

exit runners still causing concern with the flowbench readings.

looking to be back together and on the road by wed next week.

i looked into because it looked pretty good but the only real gains you get are in your air intake because they just can't do it anywhere else. ie your inlet manifold. so you still have to get a good porting job anyway. when i sent my head down i paid to get the inlet cleaned up anyway so any gains that extrusion honing would have gotten me i'll get, and then some.

i also wanted my inlet split to get more flow again which again you need to get done at a good porting shop.

if anyone has any more ideas like this please let me no. still keen to pick up any extra power i can and still a few days left to do so.

twin throttle bodys? its been done on a couple of the rb30des on here. im just starting on it now.

or have you got somthing else planned? i cant quite rember now.

if you really wanted to try somthing totaly differnt. what about increasing the size of the intake runners? im not sure if that would be a gain or a loss. but its somthing i havnt heard about...

also what about a thin copper head gasket? to increas compression even more

oh and mb to avoid alot of blow by some oil restrictors? or mb thats just what you need for rb30s... i know i need some...

Contact your local CBC Bearings, they do a kit which replaces your seals/idler/tensioner/belt at a great price, plus all the stuff they use is genuine... just not in 'nissan' boxes

I know, because I'm a Rep for them :/

Kit will set you back around the $250 mark (with racing belt)

damn monster your like a few days to late. grabbed a new racing belt the other day and idler bearing is on the way but thanks i'll keep that in mind, im sure i'll be building again in the not to distant future.

as for twin throttle bodies no have no plans as such, yet. seeing how this package goes then moving onto a twin throttle setup if i feel the need.

the inlet runners beind made larger was on the books but this will only be done if it shows up on the flow bench that we'll see gains. it still being played with and little things being changed and the gains are really starting to pile up.

as for the copper head gasket we've worked out all the comprension ratings to give her as much as she can handle with just a normal head gasket. bearing in mind that if an rb30 bottom end was to go on the compresion would increase again.

whats mb? :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...