Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just jap radiators are crap.......no offence to just jap, but there seriously sh1t, my mates car overheated rediculous, so he slapped a standard s14 radiator in and bam, no more problems.......

at the end of the day u get what u pay for, spend a little money to get a long way, after all..........ur engine will thank you for it

p.s - wat do u mean by earthing it good RB26TTVL???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2807455
Share on other sites

Stray current....

If the car has poorly wired accessories that will happen.

In our lines that already run an alloy rad if you don't have a problem then no need to worry. The VL's are released with a copper core so any problems won't show until u fit an alloy rad.

Thats the way I understand it. :) Could be wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2814826
Share on other sites

Apparently if you don't earth it a corrosive charge can build up. Local mechanic who is a bit of a closet maniac suggested it.

This happened to one of my friends who has an RB25 in a 180sx...there was holes in the radiator everywhere after only a month :) expensive lesson learned!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2814850
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
This happened to one of my friends who has an RB25 in a 180sx...there was holes in the radiator everywhere after only a month :P expensive lesson learned!

Got the Radiator. It looks excellent. The quality of workmanship is excellent. Customer service from the guys up in Qld PWR branch is second to none.

Sorry tlo say it but I disagree with earthing alloy radiators. If all your mounts and hose'a are good the radiator should be isolated from the car, so putting a earth on it will then allow stray current to be intrduced into the rad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2882802
Share on other sites

Yeah man, real nice, i've had one for about twelve months now in a VL with an RB26, and it's been spot on. They're basically the same as what the V8 supercars use. Just make sure you earth it good, and use nice coolant!

Tell me what this guy was smoking when this crap came out of his mouth. Almost all factory radiators are rubber mounted so why aren't all factory cars pissing coolant after a couple of years?

Sorry tlo say it but I disagree with earthing alloy radiators. If all your mounts and hose'a are good the radiator should be isolated from the car, so putting a earth on it will then allow stray current to be intrduced into the rad.

I agree with what GTROB says, though you still need a source for the current & then your problem is dodgy wiring not your radiator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2895090
Share on other sites

what thickness did you buy, and did you have to lose the viscous fan or did you choose to lose it?

I bought my GTS-t PWR rad from morpowa and they matched my delivered price from QLD. Totally happy with it, had it on the track and was perfect. Put the stocky back in after it got defected and noticed temps rose just sitting in traffic.

BTW, are these alloy rads regency friendly? I think we swapped mine over just to be safe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2896334
Share on other sites

what thickness did you buy, and did you have to lose the viscous fan or did you choose to lose it?

I bought my GTS-t PWR rad from morpowa and they matched my delivered price from QLD. Totally happy with it, had it on the track and was perfect. Put the stocky back in after it got defected and noticed temps rose just sitting in traffic.

BTW, are these alloy rads regency friendly? I think we swapped mine over just to be safe.

I think it's 53mm thick?? What ever their thickest is. Also its cross flow not upright. I choose to lose the fan and put a thermo on it. Got the thoermo turning on at 85 deg C and off at 80 deg C, and you very rarely here the thermo come on, the rad works that well. After a long run and the car is idling down on the turbo timer the fan may come on for 20 sec at the most.

Can't see how alloy rad could be some thing cops or regency would dislike. But you never know with either of them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2896554
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...