Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppls,

Just a little heads up.

I've been hunting around for front end bushes and stumbled upon Nolathanes Front End Vehicle Enhancement Bush kit for the R32's.

The best price I have tracked down is $345 + Postage. I am waiting for them to be delivered via TNT Road express as I type, tomorrow I'm off to grab myself a cheap $150 12tonne press. I've always wanted a hydraulic press. :)

Back on topic... The kit I have coming to me is to suit the R32 GTST.

It contains:

Front Adjustable Upper Control Arm Bushes

Front Lower Control Arm Bushes

Front Adjustable Caster Rod Bushes

and.... When you fill out a form within the package Nolathane send you front end sway bar bushes.

Its almost too good to be true for $345 + postage (~$18). I've seen them go elsewhere for $400 and some places $500 for the same kit!

PM me if you want to know where I got mine from; however, until I receive mine there's no guarantee's. :)

I've attached a couple pics of the kit and whats in it. Note the blue marks.

Nolathane also do a bush kit to suit the R32 GTR and R33 GTST.

I'll report back once the bushes are in to let you lot all know if NVH increases as Nolathane bushes some years ago 'used' to be quite hard *from experience in a previous car*.

Nolathane do however claim

Nolathane is no longer hard and is now designed for normal street use as opposed to harder motor sport suspension settings

These changes allow Nolathane parts to provide performance enhancement without compromising noise, vibration or harshness (N.V.H.).

post-382-1168254515.jpg

post-382-1168254521.jpg

Did you re grease them every so often as you are supposed to? They look dry.

Torqued up correctly? Not just a yep that feels tight enough?

Just trying to get an idea of how/why they failed. Maybe 4yrs with the type of driving and amount of kays is about right????? I have NFI when it comes to bushes. :)

I used to have my VS Commo 5ltr 5speed bushes greased every 20-30k otherwise the slight squeek would jack me off. They were whiteline bushes but. There was one squeek turning in to my street as it went over a slight dip as I was turning at low speed that I couldn't get rid of. Then it went and ripped the sway bar riser out of the strut so in went whitelines riser to lower control arm kit that really firmed up the car nicely.

Can't wait!!! :(

------

Regarding the installation of bushes.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURES

* All suspension parts must be clean and free of paint, rust, grease and previous rubber deposits before fitting Nolathane components.

* Mounting pins, eyes and shoulders must offer no pitting, bending or distortion prior to fitting Nolathane components. where suspension parts show signs of deterioration or damage, they must be either replaced or repaired to manufacturer's specifications.

* Use lubricant supplied in kit. Grease all bush surfaces which are designed to pivot (i.e. internal bores and flange faces) . Do not grease outside surface of shackle bushes. Additional grease is available. Part number CVG10 (10 X 100g sachets)

* After Nolathane components have been fitted, vehicle must be at normal ride height (i.e. sitting on wheels unladen) BEFORE final tightening/torquing of location bolts, nuts and shackles is carried out.

* Before installing in vehicle, crush must be checked. Nolathane bushes have been designed to suit standard applications. Should vehicle be equipped with aftermarket suspension packages, size of bush must be checked for correct crush and outside diameter. All flanged bushes must offer 0.5-1 mm crush on each shoulder.

Can't wait!!! :(

------

Regarding the installation of bushes.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURES

* All suspension parts must be clean and free of paint, rust, grease and previous rubber deposits before fitting Nolathane components.

* Mounting pins, eyes and shoulders must offer no pitting, bending or distortion prior to fitting Nolathane components. where suspension parts show signs of deterioration or damage, they must be either replaced or repaired to manufacturer's specifications.

* Use lubricant supplied in kit. Grease all bush surfaces which are designed to pivot (i.e. internal bores and flange faces) . Do not grease outside surface of shackle bushes. Additional grease is available. Part number CVG10 (10 X 100g sachets)

* After Nolathane components have been fitted, vehicle must be at normal ride height (i.e. sitting on wheels unladen) BEFORE final tightening/torquing of location bolts, nuts and shackles is carried out.

* Before installing in vehicle, crush must be checked. Nolathane bushes have been designed to suit standard applications. Should vehicle be equipped with aftermarket suspension packages, size of bush must be checked for correct crush and outside diameter. All flanged bushes must offer 0.5-1 mm crush on each shoulder.

Hope you have a cool temp with the castor bushes. if they aren't already broken the bushes are silica filled and oftern require an oxy to heat them up and burn them to get them out. When i do them at work i do them hanging up against a wall coz sometime they explode and hot silica hurts on the skin.

I have heard the caster bushes are a pain the arse to remove.

Both of mine started leaking around a year or so ago and have finally stopped leaking but make loud clunking noises. :S

So they are well and truly stuffed.

So given mine have already broken I should be ok yes?

Have you ever tried a hole saw on the end of a drill to help break them?

Have you ever tried a hole saw on the end of a drill to help break them?

Thats how I done mine on my 33,

Once I cut the centre out, the outer pressed out very easy.

Edited by woolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...