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Hicas Myth

wortho32
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heslo
heslo

I assume you fit a lock bar? If so I believe the only thing left to do is get a wheel alignment and all should be good

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

GTRGeoff's lock bar is cheaper, but if he doesn't have any, I can organise the Whiteline R32 HICAS lock bar kit for $190 delivered to any where in Australia. The kit also comes with a hydraulic bypass loop which you can use if you don't want to remove all the hydraulic stuff. The HICAS computer still thinks everything is OK, so you don't have to remove the warning globe either.

Whiteline don't make R33 or R34 HICAS lock bars yet, but I am working on it.

:D cheers :D

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
GTRGeoff's lock bar is cheaper, but if he doesn't have any, I can organise the Whiteline R32 HICAS lock bar kit for $190 delivered to any where in Australia. The kit also comes with a hydraulic bypass loop which you can use if you don't want to remove all the hydraulic stuff. The HICAS computer still thinks everything is OK, so you don't have to remove the warning globe either.

Whiteline don't make R33 or R34 HICAS lock bars yet, but I am working on it.

:huh: cheers :)

Nice one SK :wave:

I thought the first one reverse engineered would have been the one for SOSK but then there are the racecars :P Of course Whiteline will come up with a trick for the ecu to get rid of the light as they always seem to run with a nice complete solution.

I don't mind at all. They seem to have got a bit too popular and I never wanted it to get too big.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Nice one SK ;)

I thought the first one reverse engineered would have been the one for SOSK but then there are the racecars ;) Of course Whiteline will come up with a trick for the ecu to get rid of the light as they always seem to run with a nice complete solution.

I don't mind at all. They seem to have got a bit too popular and I never wanted it to get too big.

Whiteline don't even know that SOSK's R33GTST has one of your lock bars on it. No reverse engineering is going to happen on my watch. Plus I will make sure I charge enough for the engineering so that they will have to sell them for more than yours. :)

:happy: cheers :happy:

philta Community Regular

philta

Posted
Posted

sorry guys but isnt hicas meant to to reduce oversteer. (nissan design this to aid driving on the limits)

btw when it comes on does the hicas light on the cluster light up?

not sure if mines been locked or removed since i never ever see that light while cornering ro going sideways, only noticed in my mates r32

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Meant to reduce oversteer...

I get moving, HICAS kicks in above the 80km/h...

I hit a corner. Turn in beautiful, then HICAS goes "We're turning" and turns the rear wheels. Next thing I'm flying at the apex, (Way too tight) so I go to loosen off, HICAS decides we're straightening up and does the same, next thing, I'm going for the outside gutter!

It does that CONTINOUSLY through out the corner!

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted
Meant to reduce oversteer...

I get moving, HICAS kicks in above the 80km/h...

I hit a corner. Turn in beautiful, then HICAS goes "We're turning" and turns the rear wheels. Next thing I'm flying at the apex, (Way too tight) so I go to loosen off, HICAS decides we're straightening up and does the same, next thing, I'm going for the outside gutter!

It does that CONTINOUSLY through out the corner!

Good description :unsure: lot of little bites when winding in lock, heading for the apex.

Its also what makes the car feel so light when gradually moving into high speed corners i believe.

M

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

A few points, based on what I know of the system and experiences on the track.

HICAS only works over 80kmh and turns in the smae direction as the front wheels. It only gives 1 degree of turn. The light only comes on if there is a problem, not when it is working.

Through a constant radius turn at around 80kmh it is quite easy to feel it start to operate.

Since it turns in the same direction as the fronts it increases understeer by driving the rear wheels toward the inside of the corner. The natural reaction to that on the track is to back off to tf weight to the front or to give it some throttle to induce slight oversteer.

This second option is where things get hairy for some. As you give it some throttle the rear starts to move out, and as you transition into oversteer the rear wheels turn in the other direction and pull the rear of the car in the opposite direction. A number of novices have then made the mistake of backing off which then commences a state of loss of control known as the tank slapper. This has ended more than once with a meeting with a wall or other hard object. The worst case scenario is when the corner is taken close to 80kmh and the system is cutting in and out.

It seems fine for full drifting though as the intent is to get the rear out and use power to keep it out, but for track the ideal is not to slide so the thin edge is very thin indeed with this crap system. As you turn in so does HICAS, and then you have to adjust more so yes a number of steering direction changes needed until it reaches its limit then you may need to readjust for the loss of rate of change to the rear end.

For everyday driving it is fine so leave it unless there is a problem or you are racing/pushing the limits.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
just a short question so i can notify my mate, it comes on when i cornered fast. does this means his is faulty becuase he too doesnt know if his is locked or not.

That means the Sensors are likely not working so check/clean connections on the HICAS unit.

It is not hard to see if locked. Either a long tube will replace the large HICAS unit at the back of the doff or there will be a couple of large washer looking things at the ends of the unit (Tomei lock) that can be felt under the boot.

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