Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Identify A True R33 V-spec

woza01
 Share

Recommended Posts

woza01 Community Regular

woza01

Posted
Posted

Can anyone out there please tell me how to tell the difference between a standard R33 GTR and a V-Spec Model.

I know the obvious one - the V-Spec has an Active LSD withe a couple of wires coming out of it, but what else is there that I should look for ? I am in the market for a GTR, and am looing for a V-Spec in particular, but want it to be the real deal.

Is there not a way you can tell from the Chassis number or something like that ?

Any help would be much appreciated !

Cheers

Woza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150926-how-to-identify-a-true-r33-v-spec/
Share on other sites
GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

The vehicle serial will have a W

The AWD is controlled by a slightly faster processor

it has a sticker on the back and

it has a pox active rear diff that no-one will know what to do to fix it if it goes bang

oh and the buyer has probably wasted about 2-5 grand over a "standard" with a proper 2-way diff which would have paid for replacement suspension since the slightly firmer V-spec suspension has now shagged it.

:(

woza01 Community Regular

woza01

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So GTRGeoff.....I take it you are not a fan of the V-Spec ?

to be honest I would like some guidance as to whether or not I should get a V-Spec or a normal GTR. From your response it sounds like I shouldnt ?

Any other opinions etc out there ?

The vehicle serial will have a W

The AWD is controlled by a slightly faster processor

it has a sticker on the back and

it has a pox active rear diff that no-one will know what to do to fix it if it goes bang

oh and the buyer has probably wasted about 2-5 grand over a "standard" with a proper 2-way diff which would have paid for replacement suspension since the slightly firmer V-spec suspension has now shagged it.

:(

Edited by woza01
Sl!m Grand Master

Sl!m

Posted
Posted

different suspension (but like mentioned already, probably already been replaced)

active lsd

attessa pro

I think the 33 vspec is not as rare as the r32 vspec so not realy worth alot more than the normal 33gtr. The extras can be handy but not realy a must have

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

There is basically no difference on the track in terms of laptimes, and as the cars age the diff is a real negative in terms of repairs if they go so that is a lot of money to pay for a $5 sticker. One of the members had no end of trouble diagnosing and repairing an active diff on a GTS25t S2.

Now if it was a 32 there would be a quantum leap in processor speeds and the 17" wheels and Brembo brakes so a worthy purchase (not to mention a later model and not a 89 model as is prevalent).

On a 34 the extras are quite significant but includes the underbody aero fittings as well.

Just do what a previous owner of mine did and buy the schticker. It means nothing to those that know but the playstation generation will wet themselves.

32vspecII Mentor

32vspecII

Posted
Posted (edited)

there is a whole heap of extra bracing underneath the car to stiffen it up more

basically pay no more , but if you find one then meh you might as well get it and be cool with the v-spec sticker at the back

Edited by arkon
maccattack Proficient

maccattack

Posted
Posted

Easiest way to tell is have a look at the rear diff.

V-Spec's have fins on the diff for cooling - Non V-Spec's do not.

I must say that when I was first looking for my GTR, I HAD to have a V-Spec because they were the better car (supposedly). Ended up with a standard GTR - couldn't be happier.

The average mortal would not be able to tell the difference in performance between the two.

Anyone who says they can is pulling their pud!!!

Look for the best car (condition) - not whether it is V-Spec or not.

EVIL TWIN Apprentice

EVIL TWIN

Posted
Posted

^ yep the finned diff is the easiest way, but that can be changed easily, especially if the car has had a diff upgrade. My R32 has the finned V-spec diff cover, but it couldn't be a V-spec because it's an 89.

But as everyone says, it's not really gonna make much noticable difference except being able to say "it's a V-spec"

32vspecII Mentor

32vspecII

Posted
Posted (edited)
I'm still yet to see it or any documentation regarding this. The couple of V's I've looked seem no different to mine but they were quick looks and there may be something there.

I would like to know more too , all the bracing looks 100% factory and knowledgable performance workshops pointed it out as the v-spec bracing.

its quite noticable , all around the diff , rear axel , exhauist and up in the front of the chassis too

its a real pain to cause it knocks against my exhaust so if its not factory ill rip it out . it looks very very factory though....

i can post pics next time its on the hoist if it helps

Edited by arkon
GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Actually it was more than that, the A-lsd fix for PFC has been sorted for quite some time now. Oil problems this time but still an expensive fix for such a simple problem. And another A-lsd problem has occurred today as well.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

The easiest way is by checking the ID plate ( blue plate on the firewall), as others said it has a W instead of a G in a none V-spec.

There are a lot of other differences, some very minor but everything can be changed so the ID is the best way .

There is NO extra bracing under the car in a V-spec, they are all the same V-spec and none have the same bracing. The finned diff is a good indication as is all the plumbing that goes to it . ALSD on the cluster ( how easy is this to change) . Brake ducts on te V-spec directing more air to the brakes is another . The strutts are different ( same colour so they look the same and they are interchangeable) and the ride is a little lower on the V-spec.

Other stuff is more difficult to see without taking stuff off ( like computers)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...