Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know anywhere in Melb, pref northern suburbs that might have stock of K&N HP-2008 Oil Filters? I know none of the autobarns have any, i've got some on order through one but they always have to do special orders and get them in from the states, and it takes ages. Just wanted do a service while I am off work.

BTW, using K&N ones is just personal preference, i'm not going to use different ones :glare:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151058-kn-oil-filters/
Share on other sites

thats not east thats like south. will try those stores tomorrow :(

Sif thats south.........south is phillip island, I could say east is traralgon too, perhaps sth east is agreeable :)

khunjeng:

The brilliance of the K&N is the 1" head on the end of the filter to remove the filter using a socket set :(

Edited by Wheezy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151058-kn-oil-filters/#findComment-2812126
Share on other sites

hmm didn't realise that you could get the K&N oil filters easily here. I have seen some ok reviews regarding flow and filter ability form them, funny enough the stock jap ones got better results. Go OEM.

care to share the reviews i use the K&N oil filter as well i wana see how it is..

btw i get mine from fawkner they normally have em

Edited by assyrian4evaa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151058-kn-oil-filters/#findComment-2812141
Share on other sites

care to share the reviews i use the K&N oil filter as well i wana see how it is..

btw i get mine from fawkner they normally have em

I will have to find it somewhere...saw it like 6 months ago. Probably from the BITOG forum...oil forum I'm a member of. From memory it was better than Ryco for both pressure and flow - which by the way, isn't hard cos Ryco always finish at the bottom.

I do know that K&N filters are made buy Champion Labs, who make M1 and other decent deisgns. Generally the K&N oil filters have good flow and not as good filtering.

Anyway filters are so varied and different depending on what factory made them. I have a Aussie Nissan filters in from of me now but may vary form my Jap version - and it seems to in a numbe rof ways see the link below:

I found this in my favourites about OEM Nissan filters

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/515

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151058-kn-oil-filters/#findComment-2812586
Share on other sites

I will have to find it somewhere...saw it like 6 months ago. Probably from the BITOG forum...oil forum I'm a member of. From memory it was better than Ryco for both pressure and flow - which by the way, isn't hard cos Ryco always finish at the bottom.

I do know that K&N filters are made buy Champion Labs, who make M1 and other decent deisgns. Generally the K&N oil filters have good flow and not as good filtering.

Anyway filters are so varied and different depending on what factory made them. I have a Aussie Nissan filters in from of me now but may vary form my Jap version - and it seems to in a numbe rof ways see the link below:

I found this in my favourites about OEM Nissan filters

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/515

I think I remember seeing the comparisons you mentioned, just remember something about the k&n's being the highest flow but not best filtering. I change my oil every 3000k's so I figured i'd go for flow over filtering....i dunno it all just seems to ring a bell...

Sorry Kyle....did I use your last one? :wave:

yes :)

Try Epping Autobarn. If Antonio or Jim can't get it overnight then it can't be got it seems.....

thats where I've had 2 on order for like a month :huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151058-kn-oil-filters/#findComment-2813063
Share on other sites

Sif thats south.........south is phillip island, I could say east is traralgon too, perhaps sth east is agreeable :laugh:

khunjeng:

The brilliance of the K&N is the 1" head on the end of the filter to remove the filter using a socket set :laugh:

the 1" head has to be the best invention they've come up with..see its not just the japs that are smart! :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151058-kn-oil-filters/#findComment-2818380
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...