Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

who here has the 80G and 80AU?

what is the difference?

what is ultra sonic?

what would you guys reccomend?

thanks

Personally I prefer Autowatch 446 Premier with built in turbo timer.

As for ultra sonics these are usually a 2 piece system mounted on either side of the dashboard, 1 of them is a transmitter the other is a reciever and an ultra sonic beam (high frequency sound wave) is transmitted from i to the other, if the beam is broken by an object such as an arm the alarm is triggered. If I had to choose I would pick ultra sonics instead of microwave sensor but definately a shock sensor is needed if you want to save your wheels!

Goodbye :rant:

Ditto for the M80S...

Ultrasonics are a pain in the ar5e if u ask me... constantly false alarming to the point that you have turned the sensor down and might as well not have it at all......

  • 2 weeks later...
Ditto for the M80S...

Ultrasonics are a pain in the ar5e if u ask me... constantly false alarming to the point that you have turned the sensor down and might as well not have it at all......

hmmm, the m80s comes with shock sensors, ultrasonic sensors r optional. Ive got a m80g, same as m80s but with glass break sensor. I get false alarms also. You sure its not the shcok sensors that r causing it?

hmmm, the m80s comes with shock sensors, ultrasonic sensors r optional. Ive got a m80g, same as m80s but with glass break sensor. I get false alarms also. You sure its not the shcok sensors that r causing it?

glass break is set a tad too high. common problem I have with them after I set them to my liking.

glass break is set a tad too high. common problem I have with them after I set them to my liking.

hey, audio express from caa right?

Were abouts is the control for the glass break sensor? On the module?

I think all Mongoose m80 series come with 2 stage shock sensor as standard.

I had the m80AU fitted about 3 weeks ago.

Couldnt be happier.

ultrasonic are high frequency waves being sent around the inside of the car. If something gets in the way of the bouncing signals they set off the alarm.

Basically, if you have the window down and you stick your hand through the alarm will go off.

Reason I chose:

If car has tinted window's and window is popped out, glass break sensor may not hear.

Sensitivity:

I think it is perfect. A lot of people say its too sensitive but majority dont even have the system..Not once have I had a false trigger from the sensors.

I also had window sunshade stuck on window, one side detached and didnt trigger the alarm.

I paid an extra $40 when compared to glass break sensor and I guess its worth it for such a low price difference.

I was planning on getting microwave sensor but the alarm person talked me out of it, not sure why, thought it would be better having a chirp if someone looks through window. I think it may cause too many false triggers if people walk past etc..

yup... i am getting the M80AU installed on saturday by the guys at Platinum PPI. Gave me a very good deal so i will let you all know how it goes.

http://www.platinumppi.com/accessories.html

take a shot under the dash when you are done and I'll see if I can find the unit :no:

take a shot under the dash when you are done and I'll see if I can find the unit :no:

I had a look at my Girlfriends Celica on the weekend, her shock sensor was set way too high. Pulled down the main panel under the steering wheel, and there was the black box, nice and easy to adjust, way too easy!

Would a good place to hide an alarm module be on the passenger side, up underneath the dash as far up as possible? Or does it not matter, because you can look around for additional wires and follow them back?

I had a look at my Girlfriends Celica on the weekend, her shock sensor was set way too high. Pulled down the main panel under the steering wheel, and there was the black box, nice and easy to adjust, way too easy!

Would a good place to hide an alarm module be on the passenger side, up underneath the dash as far up as possible? Or does it not matter, because you can look around for additional wires and follow them back?

Chris, what's your recommendation for hiding it...?

not going into detail but right out of mind and out of sight.

worked on one today that I could have stole the car in less than 30 secs becuase it was such a sh1t job...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...