Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just get a few washers and put them in the hinges to lift it up a little i did it with my old car for similar over heating issues cooled down pretty quick after that 1 cm is all the lift it needs but it does look kind of random and i think its illegal (cop pulled me over told me to take the washers out or he would fine me) so give it a thought

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

just get a few washers and put them in the hinges to lift it up a little i did it with my old car for similar over heating issues cooled down pretty quick after that 1 cm is all the lift it needs but it does look kind of random and i think its illegal (cop pulled me over told me to take the washers out or he would fine me) so give it a thought

A vent near the front of the bonnet for the radiator air would be ideal, that way the rain only falls around the gap between radiator and pulleys.

Spacing the bonnet up at the rear does wonders too. The downside is engine smell when you activate the interior vents. On GTR's you only need to remove the rubber seal at the point where the rear of the bonnet meets the area in front of the windscreen. That works the same way.

Here ya go Dan, a pic of the ZTUNE bonnet on a R33GTR...

gallery_1569_106_76901.jpg

Main reason I put it on is coz it sees a lot of track time as well as street use...

The most I've seen my car reach is 91degrees on the Power FC controller.... mind you it has 350rwkws...

It used to be carbon, but painting it silver keeps away the unwanted attention....

Jack the car looks awesome with the bonnet painted silver, nice move. :sorcerer:

If i was to put a bonnet on my car, this is my favorite. It has all the vents in the right places; behind the radiator and above the turbo, manifold, etc.

post-1811-1168606307.jpg post-1811-1168606420.jpg

What do you guys think about that little triangle vent on the bonnet of r34 gtr's? Im not sure if its a vspec bonnet or wat, but its towards the top right hand corner of the bonnet. Im sure its there for a reason, but the way I look at it, i doubt it could help bring down temperatures much, if at all.

I thought it was to get air to the turbo housings?

Oh. :S What do you mean get air to the turbo housings? Like to cool the turbos? Stock turbos are gonna be low mount anyway and that vent is factory id say?

Yeah that's what I was thinking, coz it sits around there and I know what u'r saying but can't think of another reason to be there. push hot air down and under car?

It's to allow hot air out, that's why it is positioned above the turbos; that's also why i like the bonnet i posted.

Hot air rises :laugh:

any way you go with venting is going to have a positive effect on cooling.

your now just worried about rain? most of the engine is waterproof. or should be so there isnt that much of a problem. and while its running thisgs are pretty hot and water isnt too much of a worry.

p.s. whats rain?

lifting the back of the bonnet is a pretty good idea. a decent bonnet will cost around $1000 and you would be better spending that on a tripple core radiator or a davies crage water pump or more power so lifting the back of the bonnet up is a cheap and afective way for sire. the washers under the hinges is a bit dodgy thoe you would be better off getting a few bits of steal or aluminimum the same size of the hinge and some longer bolts to do it properly.

also removing the rubber strip will help and that alows the bonnet to stay nice and flush. thoe like mentioned before you will get the smell of the engine in the car when turning vents on. but if you have an oil breather like me this wont matter anyway because i can always smell my engine.

on my old r30 race car i simply cut a hole out between the top of the radiator and the cam cover and when the car is sitting there you can see the heat floating out the vent. if it wasnt venting than it would be circulating in the engine ay going no where.

another experiance i have had is when my exhaust temp sensor has been sitting on the turbo housing (before being installed) when the car is running it may get up to 300 deg and after 30 secconds of the engine being switched off the temp is up to 350 to 400 deg.

so basicly it gets very hot and the more you can do to stop it the better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...