Jump to content
SAU Community

Alternator Belt Adjustment - Nut Required?

mikel

By mikel,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
Posted

I had the squealing noise at start up occasionally and read the thread on fixing it.

Unfortunately I can't see any of the photos attached in the thread, but there appears to be a missing nut on the adjustor bracket on my carpost-33161-1168559832.jpg. Where the long adjustor bolt threads into the block, poking out the front is a bolt that looks like it needs a nut (see attached photo). Nissan couldn't tell me whether a nut is meant to go there or not

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

There definately isn't a nut needed. I think your bolt is through the wrong way to be honest, the block is threaded from memory and the bolt when tightened should lock the assembly in place against the bracket. As it is now it can potentially flap about.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

The pic is not very clear so i cant tell if you have the bolt that holds the block on . As BHdave said the block is threded and is bolted on the alternator with another bolt M8 from memory, you undo this a little then turn the long ajusting bolt until you have the correct tension and tighten the other bolt .

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Agreed agreed.

The long bolt does not need a nut. It is locked into place by another bolt that runs perpendicular to the one pictured. Undo that locking bolt first, then the long one in the picture will turn without much resistance.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Oh I see what people are saying about the bolt being backwards. I think they're referring to the locking bolt. You can see the end of it poking out the front. I guess now this is the one you were talking about? It's threaded in that block where the head of the bolt is. (towards the rear)

I can't remember which way round it is supposed to be, but if it's backwards, then it won't be doing any locking whatsoever. I'll check mine next time I go downstairs for a smoko.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

On every RB I've ever worked on that block is not threaded other than for the long adjustor bolt, but is clearance drilled and it's actually the mating lug on the alternator that is threaded (ie the part where you can see the bolt sticking out toward the bottom of that photo). So the lock bolt (which is what it's for - securing the adjuster mechanism) passes through that block, then the long adjuster bracket - which has a long, slotted hole - and finally screws into the threaded lug on the alternator. The idea is that the bolt clamps the block and the alternator to the adjustment bracket, which itself is attached to the block at the waterpump.

Looking at that photo I suspect your problem could be that the bolt is too long. The standard bolt would only stick out from the alternator lug by a few mm at most. It's not standard and it's possible that there isn't enough thread, which means the bolt isn't able to be tightened sufficiently before running out of thread. This would mean that it would _appear_ that the bolt was tight when it actually wasn't and that might explain your squeels. Either that or some idiot has stripped the thread in the alternator lug and slipped in a longer bolt to fix the problem, in which case there should also be a nut on that bolt (and the fact that there isn't one would also explain the squeels, etc).

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted (edited)

There you go! The bolt is in the correct way. And as SteveL said, I can also see that my locking bolt doesn't stick out anywhere near that far.

Edited by RANDY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...