Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had the squealing noise at start up occasionally and read the thread on fixing it.

Unfortunately I can't see any of the photos attached in the thread, but there appears to be a missing nut on the adjustor bracket on my carpost-33161-1168559832.jpg. Where the long adjustor bolt threads into the block, poking out the front is a bolt that looks like it needs a nut (see attached photo). Nissan couldn't tell me whether a nut is meant to go there or not

There definately isn't a nut needed. I think your bolt is through the wrong way to be honest, the block is threaded from memory and the bolt when tightened should lock the assembly in place against the bracket. As it is now it can potentially flap about.

The pic is not very clear so i cant tell if you have the bolt that holds the block on . As BHdave said the block is threded and is bolted on the alternator with another bolt M8 from memory, you undo this a little then turn the long ajusting bolt until you have the correct tension and tighten the other bolt .

Agreed agreed.

The long bolt does not need a nut. It is locked into place by another bolt that runs perpendicular to the one pictured. Undo that locking bolt first, then the long one in the picture will turn without much resistance.

Oh I see what people are saying about the bolt being backwards. I think they're referring to the locking bolt. You can see the end of it poking out the front. I guess now this is the one you were talking about? It's threaded in that block where the head of the bolt is. (towards the rear)

I can't remember which way round it is supposed to be, but if it's backwards, then it won't be doing any locking whatsoever. I'll check mine next time I go downstairs for a smoko.

On every RB I've ever worked on that block is not threaded other than for the long adjustor bolt, but is clearance drilled and it's actually the mating lug on the alternator that is threaded (ie the part where you can see the bolt sticking out toward the bottom of that photo). So the lock bolt (which is what it's for - securing the adjuster mechanism) passes through that block, then the long adjuster bracket - which has a long, slotted hole - and finally screws into the threaded lug on the alternator. The idea is that the bolt clamps the block and the alternator to the adjustment bracket, which itself is attached to the block at the waterpump.

Looking at that photo I suspect your problem could be that the bolt is too long. The standard bolt would only stick out from the alternator lug by a few mm at most. It's not standard and it's possible that there isn't enough thread, which means the bolt isn't able to be tightened sufficiently before running out of thread. This would mean that it would _appear_ that the bolt was tight when it actually wasn't and that might explain your squeels. Either that or some idiot has stripped the thread in the alternator lug and slipped in a longer bolt to fix the problem, in which case there should also be a nut on that bolt (and the fact that there isn't one would also explain the squeels, etc).

There you go! The bolt is in the correct way. And as SteveL said, I can also see that my locking bolt doesn't stick out anywhere near that far.

Edited by RANDY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...