Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been told it will make a MASSIVE difference, and am about to sound-deaden my doors and install new splits. Have also seen some sort of sound-deadening sheeting, looks like a foam, which i think is meant to go behind the speaker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818594
Share on other sites

I've been told it will make a MASSIVE difference, and am about to sound-deaden my doors and install new splits. Have also seen some sort of sound-deadening sheeting, looks like a foam, which i think is meant to go behind the speaker.

I believe you are referring to a diffuser mat.

aah00n if you want your car to sound good, get the deadening. Doesn't even have to be the whole door - I only had the forward half of my doors deadened and it made a significant improvement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818603
Share on other sites

now I've started something :laugh:

it makes a huge difference. camera isnt here but I'll show you a 33 door (beofre and after) when I find my camera.

the whole idea is to make the door as acoustically dead as possible (there is a LOT of tech to this but that is the gist of it,.) so you have almost zero refelctions and cancelation.

the foam stops the reflections the sound deadening stops the panels from moving by adding weight. the result is better sound and a quieter car when the music is off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818607
Share on other sites

Dont forget to add, that deadening the inner skin, separates the back speaker movement sound waves from the front there fore eliminating mid cancellation, and improving midbass ten fold :laugh:.

The Dynaxorb diffuser mats have specific ridges which disperse the backwaves and stop them from bouncing back onto the speaker cone, therefore improving power handling and less distortion.

George

Adelaide Pro Sound

Edited by Adelaideprosound
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2819070
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Old post, see if someone notices it...

If I get my doors deadened, and the diffuser mat placed in, then change my door speakers later does the diffuser mat have to removed/reglued etc?

Does it connect to the speaker, or just go straight onto the door, moulded to the speaker depth etc?

Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3292466
Share on other sites

yeah man as above fully worth it

Get some dynamat extreme or b-quiet

then put a layer behind where the speaker sits, then rip off the factory plastic, get all th sticky stuff off with meths

then cover the whole door, all the wholes, cut out the part where the speaker will go(cut it in triangles from the inside of the circle, so not just cutting round it, so make about 10 cuts from the centre to the outer diameter of the speaker

You'll be left with triangle strips, leave those in, put the speaker in and you'll really really notice the different :(

I'll try get pics too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3292721
Share on other sites

Here are some pics of mine. I used mostly Bostik, but will be striping this back and using all Dynamat Extreme in the near future. SDing your ride will make a significant difference, I did the boot when it was striped out and it made a huge difference to quietening the exhaust.

10.jpg

04.jpg

05.jpg

And this is the FG weather/water shield I made to protect the speaker. It's covered in DME.

09.jpg

So you can see the inner and outer skins are done, I went so far as to wrap the side intrusion beams! The bostik is very easy to work with, you just heat up the panels (they are 500mmx500mm) and the become soft and easy to mould to panels. Similar to DM, you just peel backing of to expose a sticky side.

Hope this helps, and sorry about the phone pics, I didn't have a digi cam when I did the SDing.

Edited by rocketboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3295017
Share on other sites

Just did my parcel shelf today with Dynamat, all the rattles and squeaks are gone :laugh:, One wedge pack managed to do most of it, i didnt cover every single part of the shelf, but will when i get some more Dynamat. There was some left over but im about to tackle my front doors, so i dont want to run out and the odd shapes might come in handy. Should of taken a pic, will post it up when i move my splits to the rear and put my new ones in the front.

cheers

Evil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3297199
Share on other sites

I did my doors a while ago now and it is great. It dropped out a fair bit of cabin noise and I have only done the doors. I probably went a little overboard but oh well. I want to do pieces of my rear parcel shelf and a bit on the inside of some of the flatter panels of the car at the rear.

Pics of what I did with my doors

post-13456-1187610154_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1187610204_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3299347
Share on other sites

I've had it all done too. Acess holes filled in with aluminium sheet, then that covered with dynamat. Those pads behind the speakers. Then the foam on the door cards as well to stop them rattleing, and to kill a bit more noise.

To say the least it made a HUGE difference. Mid bass was increased, road noise was reduced. The doors now also make that nice thud noise when they close. Which is just a perk I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3316911
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...