Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wheres sydneykid when you need him on the afm vs map sensor debate

my tuner here in nz who's one of the best in the country says afm's are more accurate and the power fc is a great computer.

PowerFC is a good computer when you want minimum effort to get a decent tuneable ECU. I've heard patchy arguements that MAPs are better than AFMs - I've given answers to the AFM vs. MAP debate already SirRacer. I'm not going to join the arguement, but I vote the MAP sensor without hesitation.

ST mainly tunes PowerFCs, no wonder he's pro PowerFC.... if he can't tune other things, why would he tell you to go with others?

There are quite a few cases around the place of people getting over 500whp on stock internal RB25s, though at least a thicker head gasket is well recommended.

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh thanks for all the info people i really appreciate it, and its exacully what i was looking for.

as for the power i am chasing would be between 300 and 350rwkw, so from what ive heard this shouldn't stress the rb25 alot.

the reason why i asked this question is that as we all know a rebuild could cost more than full high mount setup, so yeh i think we get the drift.

once again cheers, and keep the info roling as there could be other noobie's out there looking for this kinda stuff :)

Not joining the argument on which is best,

But Just to add to the convo on pfc's making good power, seems the japanese tuners can make good power from them, as there is a Imports mag, i was looking at with a 1200hp drag skyline with a powerFC. I believe its in the top 10 list. ill get the mag and update this post.

So theres 3 of us

Hectic

i thougt i was the only one making it up

hahhahahahahahahaha

So mr r31 nismodeiodjfgjiut

It Can be done

I never said it could not be done.

Just not reliably.

On a side note, arent you done making yourself look like a 5yr old yet? I thought you'd moved on from well... muppet posts.

Im sure its doing wonders for your business the attitude you display here.

And then, 100rwkw more than matlowth, i'd want more than an extra 4mph return :yes:

I never said it could not be done.

Just not reliably.

On a side note, arent you done making yourself look like a 5yr old yet? I thought you'd moved on from well... muppet posts.

Im sure its doing wonders for your business the attitude you display here.

And then, 100rwkw more than matlowth, i'd want more than an extra 4mph return :yes:

Comon man sloppy shiftin

Edited by MR331307
but I don't believe electronics are the japanese strong point.

The Japs basically invented electronics in the 80s & 90s. How old is the PFC? How old are the new ecus we are talking about? Yeah...

The issue isn't if it can be done, the issue is how long can it be done for. Most ppl dont wannt rebuild in 6 months.

Not wanting to get into an argument here, but I don't believe electronics are the japanese strong point. They excel from a basic engineering standpoint with the build quality and tolerances of their motors. Look at most Jap vs Aussie motors and you'll see that the Ford/holden built motors are the ones who use/leak oil etc, while it's the japanese cars that always have failing electronic components (oddly enough). PFC's are so popular because the Japanese have been using them for a long time & get easy and consistant results with them but really they are just a basic adjustable standard syle ecu. Then look at some of the aussie cars using Shit low tech motors and Aussie made ECU's and tuning knowhow, and they break all the rules. V8 supercars is a good example of a basically shit motor tuned within a inch of it's own life.

Short answer is PFC = Easy option/Path well travelled

Don't mean to offend anyone. Just my two cents.... I realise this may be considered an unfair generalisation, but it rings true in a lot of cases

Are you kidding?? Where do you go to buy a good camera from? I buy japanese if possible. Sure a lot of stuff is made in other countries now but the japs started it. I'd much rather own a japanese car of the 90's than some of the local crap - my 1994 gtst's electronic components haven't missed a beat in 4 years of ownership and the same goes for the 1988 nissan silvia I owned before. Compare a 90's gtst to a ford falcon of the same era and the falcon will lose reliability wise - mechanically and electrically from leaky oil seals to electronic autos that go crazy.

Most electronic problems people get with nissans are caused by dodgy workmanship ie. butchering the loom to fit an aftermarket computer. I recently helped pull an engine out of a 94 vs commo v6 - so many stupid ideas mechanically and electrically it was unbelievable. The japanese build quality from wiring to mechanical components to the electric windows is far superior.

Pfc's are the best computer you can buy for a skyline bang for buck - if you want to compare it to other aftermarket computers you'll have to go back a lot of years as pfc's have been around for a long time now. And look for a computer that's the same price that you can just plug in and drive away with + 15 rwkw and nice maps. I think you'll be looking for a long time.

As for v8 supercars making huge power - give any large capacity engine strong components, good breathing, high rpm, good tuning from the latest top quality expensive aftermarket computer - of course it will make big power.

I have heard that Power FCs are rubbish from people and to use just an SAFC and then when I come on here every1 hails Power FC again...

Do you think the D-Jetro version of the Power FC is better then because it doesn't need a AFM from under the hood?

This is important to me because I am torn apart from this descision of what ECU or Management system to get. Haltech I have heard tho are good ALL ROUND.

Paul,

Its the afm bashers that slag the PowerFC.

If your only going to use the car for street duties and maybe the 'occasional' track use grab a regular powerfc. They are fine, have knock control, return good fuel economy, cold and warm start perfectly. They are an excellent ecu.

If you've got plans for 300+rwkw and your really going to sink some $$ in to the car throw 2-3k+ ecu in to it and be done with it

So should I aim for 290kw then instead of aiming for 300 on a power fc... my original plans had power fc and still do but alot of people still say no to it... why? I want a hand controller its so cool... lol.

Who exactly says no to it?

The majority of people on this forum run a PowerFC, the minority don't.

There's nothing wrong with the pfc apart from the issue with obtaining an afm with high enough resolution for 300rwkw+.

Once the afm runs out of resolution you tune it crudely, similiar to that of a map based ecu.

The SAFC is fine if you are sticking with the std turbo.

Anything bigger and you WILL NEED an aftermarket ECU. The SAFC will not cut it as you will experience that funky R&R.

If you have plans never to throw a larger turbo on it is difficult to justify the 1k on a PowerFC + tuning. In my opinion anyway.

A s/h SAFC can be picked up for $200-$300, throw a cheap $30 bleeder on cheap fmic kit, s/h cat back, an hour or two on the dyno $100-$200 and its done.

The PowerFC will give you more average power and better economy over the SAFC, but for $700 is it worth it? Thats up to you. :)

The SAFC is really for those RB's setup with a cheap bleeder, cheap fmic kit and a second hand exhaust. If your going to throw money at the car and throw a decent $700+ FMIC, good exhaust, EBC etc you may as well throw another $700 at it for the better ecu.

I think you know what I am getting at.

Cubes, you are right as per PM to you late last year I told you I am putting quality shit on my car, and I know to go Power FC. Regardless...

I am putting a bigger turbo on, I am putting a 700 dollar FMIC kit on once I get the word its available, and I am going to put in a PFC, problem is tho due to turbo dieing faster than i expected, I am forced to put on a bigger turbo now, fmic quickly after and do the stuff i planned to do over 3 months over around 5-6 weeks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...