Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 2 month old 044 has just ticked me off.

Everything was fine until I needed to fill up yesterday afternoon when the fuel light came on, as I usually do. Put ~55 litres or so in. By the time I got home I noticed the pump was about 100% louder than usual (Which was pretty loud to start with) Thought it must be the hot weather we're having and went inside.

This morning all was fine, primed and started. Noise was at normal levels. About half way to work the noise started to increase as it did yesterday, again I attributed it to the hot weather.

On the way home the noise remained, this time it was accompanied by a great big fuel cut under load in 4th (not good :) ), a whole heap of surging and hestating to rev, and conking out twice as I limped home.

NOW, when the pump primes it sounds like its gonna explode and I'm lucky if the car will actually kick over.

I now require a new fuel pump, I'm thinking Nismo or Tomei (no more f'ing around) any suggestions?

Where can I find one at a reasonable price and in stock. Nengun have good prices but I need one REAL soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152147-my-bosch-044-failed-failed-today/
Share on other sites

The walbro one I have had isntalled makes teh same noise every time :) They are a good brand but so are the Boschs

My advice to you is get another Bosch and make sure its installed absolutely 100 prcent correctly.!!!

The walbro one I have had isntalled makes teh same noise every time :sleep: They are a good brand but so are the Boschs

My advice to you is get another Bosch and make sure its installed absolutely 100 prcent correctly.!!!

I have a walbro too,

I reckong simple if ur strapped for cash get a walbro from KUDOS motorsport online trader for about $160 delviered, its the 500hp claimed rating one.

Or

If you have the money go the tomie or nismo, i think KUDOS can help ya with that too.

And they are very quick to deliver :kiss:

Sediment at the bottom of tank. Read the warnings before installing it say's to remove the tank and clean to ensure contaminates do not clog the internal filter (this warning may have been on fuelmizer pump but it would still be the same for bosch).

So yeah buy another 044 and clean the tank before install.

Edited by BAMR33

That's exactly what happened to a bosch 040 that i had. After a hard drive the pump just became sooooo loud, then a few days later started surging. I later found the seller had been selling dodgey pumps.

Anway, i replaced it with a walbro. Easy install, very quiet, but the reviews i was getting constantly from different people really put me off.

Now in my current car i bought a nismo one, straight fit, easy as piss to install, louder than stock but not loud, but the price is almost double that of a bosch.

So if i were you i'd go a bosch/nismo, depending on budget.

I wouldn't just go blaming the seller or the pump.

If you pull a pump out of most cars, they have this filter on the bottom. It may not seem like the filter does much, but seriously, it does.

If you've ever pulled a tank out of a car that has done like 40+k ks, and have a look in the tank, there will be all this shit down the bottom.

all that sludge and shit just runs throguh the pump without the filter.

Also, with the bosch pumps, because they dot' have a pickup, they are quite high up. Whenever you run them a bit low, it dmaages the pump, because the fuel acts as a lubricant.

Why wouldnt you just use another Bosch?

After this happened I did a check through the forum and these seemed to have failed more and more of late.

Maybe I just lucked out, maybe there was sediment in the tank... I don't know yet. This 044 was using a pick-up sock and was mounted by a reputable tuner. Definately not a home job by me, but that said I doubt the tank would have been removed and cleaned... is that really a common practice?

I got one at home here if you want one urgently

I'll let you know how I get on Sidd, thanks for the offer dude!

Drew, could you please do myself, SAU and the rest of the hipo auto community a favor and not throw that pump out, but try and get to the bottom of the failure? Link below to compare part# serial# with.

>> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=144402&hl=

I'm HUGELY interested in this failure :laugh:

- Michael

Drew, could you please do myself, SAU and the rest of the hipo auto community a favor and not throw that pump out, but try and get to the bottom of the failure? Link below to compare part# serial# with.

Would be my pleasure! Probably wont get a chance to do anything til the weekend. But I'll definately be keeping it!

After this happened I did a check through the forum and these seemed to have failed more and more of late.

Probably because a lot more people use Bosch than any other.

Also i would think that a lot of failures are due to installation.

I dont know one person that i've ever met (using a bosch) thats had one fail.

But each to thier own

i got twin 044 external pumps (and 040 intank pump) and on dyno today it was dropping pressure after 480rwhp, assuming one of the 2 pumps is dead or on the way out and they seem excessively loud and were bought brand new only a while back (only done 1000km run in with them since new) from a online seller here and i hope the hell they aint dodgy as mentioned above.

i sent a PM regarding the dodgy seller to 180_mph.

I say direct result of consistant low fuel, i dont think you should always run the tank till its almost empty as wouldnt this coincide to the pump sucking all the crap at the bottom of the tank also making the pump work harder, not only that adds extensive wear and tear on the pump?

Do you run your engine oil until it all runs out? Why should a fuel pump be any different?

Alwell it happens, good luck

Cheers

Adam

I've been noticing people on the forums with the bosch pumps failing more regularly in the last 12 months or so. Nismoid is right about them being in a lot of cars in the first place though.

Get the Nismo one, sounds like a space ship. I want to get one just for that reason. :D

Get the Nismo one, sounds like a space ship. I want to get one just for that reason. :D

You've sold me! :) hahaha

I may still go for the bosch, I just need to get through this week and then I'll see what cash I have available, I'll try and pull out the f'd one asap though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...