Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A huge amount, is it a track car or something? They relocate all the oil in your sump to another canister.. normally drop the engine down a bit to when they're doing it to drop the weight distribution a bit more. Looking at at least $5k, and will only notice the difference on a track, :D

I might also interested in doing a dry sump setup myself. But from the searching I have done on this forum you should err to the side of caution unless you don't care if you munch an engine. There seems to be more to it than just slapping a external pump on.

Its been covered a few times. Theres a fellow on here who set one up on his BNR32 recently, if he cares to raise his hand :laugh:

Multi stage pump, new sump, a reservoir with heater, and a butt load of speedflow fittings and lines. Its very popular on V8's. Check companies like Moroso and the likes in the US.

- M

peterson ftw!

If your mechanically minded...its relatively easy to do...its really just knowing or getting to know the little niggly bits to best suit an rb setup.

I can tell you...speedflow fittings and hose adds up to the same as the pump, tank, filters and bracketry....fricken expensive. When you start talking -16 fittings and hose......FARK!

are speed flow fittings and braided hose absolutely necessary? Couldn't you use high pressure hose with some heavy duty connections like powersteering uses? (just asking)

Edited by dontfeelcold

the pumps and tanks were designed to be used with speedflow fittings or something similar. If you wanted to change all the fittings on the pump and tanks over to another form then yeh you could, but i dont know how much you would save there having not done it before. We looked at using ryco steel fittings instead of the speedflow...but they are just too big and bulky and wouldnt fit especially at a -16 size. The speedflow worked just nice.

post-12828-1169117584.jpg

post-12828-1169117667.jpg

post-12828-1169117694.jpg

When weve fully finished and its all up and running ill start a thread outlining what we did, so there is some information available for others who are intending to do their own dry sump setup on an RB. Ours is on an rb30det fyi.

We are doing a pre season refresh on the Wholagan GTR so ill try to remember to take the camera to work and get some picks.

The sump was the toughest part because of the Diff and the cost got crazy for all the parts.No easy way of keeping Aircon so its a track setup.

We feed the oil back in the front of the engine as per the factory oil pump and use a bare nissan pump for the crank seal but cut the top of the pump of and welded the hole over and tapped a large speedflow fitting to the oil feed in the block.Its just as easy to pump the oil back to the oil filter boss but we already had a good cooler filter setup so it was easy to go the way we did.The engine is sealed up and the breathing for the engine is in the boot mounted tank.We used most parts 2nd hand from HRT but still spent close to 10k but oil has stopped being a problem in the years its been fitted,the engine is down for a refresh but looks like its been no more than run in,Little things like adjustable oil pressure and being able to drive the pump to prime the engine at rebuilds and oil changes is nice. Its easy to but ex touring car parts so look around but trust me,it costs much more than you will expect with just the hoses costing more than some ppl think the whole job will cost, but still less than one lost engine due to oil problems.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...