Jump to content
SAU Community

Pulling Apart A R32 Coupe Door. Need Help

jwah

By jwah,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

jwah Collaborator

jwah

Posted
Posted

I need to fix up my power window on my GTR and i was just wondering how do you get the door apart after you pull off the trim? is it riveted? I havent really had a good look but i was wondering if someone has done this before maybe they could point me in the right direction so when i go to do it its almost hassle free.

Problem #2 - I am considering pulling off my engine covers to get them painted, im just wondering what do i do with the crank angle sensor, is it safe to pull it off and put back on or with it f**k my engine up or somthing. I have had nothing to do with this kinda stuff before. Is it easy to do?

Cheers

seeyagtr Enthusiast

seeyagtr

Posted
Posted
I need to fix up my power window on my GTR and i was just wondering how do you get the door apart after you pull off the trim? is it riveted? I havent really had a good look but i was wondering if someone has done this before maybe they could point me in the right direction so when i go to do it its almost hassle free.

Problem #2 - I am considering pulling off my engine covers to get them painted, im just wondering what do i do with the crank angle sensor, is it safe to pull it off and put back on or with it f**k my engine up or somthing. I have had nothing to do with this kinda stuff before. Is it easy to do?

Cheers

Hey

#1 to pull of the door trim, you need to rmove all the auxliary items of the door ie: Handles an bits and then gentle seperate the trim and door from the clips, this can be tricky and make sure that there is no extra screw in it.

#2 Make sure that you mark the crank angle before you remove :)

cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
#2 Make sure that you mark the crank angle before you remove :D

This has me stumped. How do you mark it if you are going to paint it? (I'm not being a smartarse I'm just keen to learn as I'd like to paint mine too)

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

cowie, no-one said he was going to paint the CAS. Just needs to remove it to get the cam cover off.

jwah,

The door is basically welded shut. However, there are openings on the inner panel to gain access to the components. There is probably a protective sheet of plastic on the door under the trim. If you carefully break the adhesive, and peel the plastic back, you should have access. But it's not easy access.

If you are only doing the rocker covers, then they can be removed without upsetting the CAS. If you do remove the CAS, take care not to break the half-moon locating key on the camshaft side.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

As long as the locating keys are intact, there is only 1 way it will go back together. The engine will run, regardless.

If you mark it on the bolt holes, it should be ok - not likely to paint those.

If in doubt, check it with a timing light.

jwah Collaborator

jwah

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well yeah that sounds good. I didnt know about the woodruff keyway or anything but i guess that makes sense, you could mark the sensor, because the bolts can only go into the holes, i was just worried about where abouts the senser position would end up because it can swivel i guess. anyway Cheers for the replys. I will give it ago in the weeks to come.

Cheers

Edited by jwah
cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
cowie, no-one said he was going to paint the CAS. Just needs to remove it to get the cam cover off.

Sorry to cause a mixup, I thought you marked the CAS position on the cam cover, and then went and painted the cam cover. I'm still going a little cross-eyed over this one as I can't see any marking on the CAS like on adjustable cam gears. Perhaps I'd better take another look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...