Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In two weeks i will be dropping out my engine to do a few things!

I have trust dump's/front to go on

Timing belt

radiator hoses

going to try remove hicas shit beside the engine

few oil leaks to fix

front cv boots

general oil changes also

few gauge sensors to go in also

what else would be ideal to do while its all out??

now i only have the actual dumps and no bolts etc. what else would be an idea to get while i am doing them?

i'm going to drop the whole motor and gearbox out, as i see thats an easy way to do it. any other ideas? as i have access to a hoist and i'm going to be doing all this with my mate. over a 3 day long weekend!

i have a 32 gtr with a 34gtr getrag box in it.

Cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152272-while-doing-my-dump-pipes-32-gtr/
Share on other sites

ull find a few vacum lines being all hard.. change whats distorted...

u wont need to change ur tuirbo dump bolts.. not mandatory.. but should if u want.. change ur turbos to something steel wheel if u have $$$

and get a Tbelt kit and not just a tbe;lt. as the pulleys get noisey too..

also exhast gaskets...

i did mine a while ago. taking the engine out seems like more effort but uve got a few other things to do too.

good luck with it.

while you got the sump off clean all the sludge out of it. Years and years of old oil turns into a gluggy goo...can block pick up and cause all sorts of problems you dont want to deal with. while sump is off pull pressure relief valve (one bolt) out of bottom of oil pump and clean. if that gets stuck, no oil pressure.

its a pretty fresh motor, built before i bought the car over from japan. but i will be checking out whats been done in the sump.

around 500hp i'm aiming for with the dumps installed :( so there is a good set of puffers on there already!

i thought lastnite about it also.

fuel filter is on the list now!

but thanks guys you've added a few more :D

Edited by Angus Smart

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...