Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

we just got the R34 GTT and on inspection before buying it had a slight miss which she then took it away and put some fresh set of plugs in (unknown brand or gap). the mechanic who did the work for her said plug no.4 was rich and had carbon deposits... all 6 wer supposively replaced.

it was better but could still feel a slight miss up high. it gradually got worst till today driving around it wouldnt rev over 4500rpm.. just occasionally. and another time u can hear it miss on idle and at 3000rpm onto the highway. (it used to rev through fine without load. but when loaded it will miss now it misses all the time..?)

now im guessing its to do with the plugs.. wrong gap. bad plugs..

coil packs. i understand coil packs do this often.

AFM or sensor. (O2 sensor)

Fuel related (blocked filter)

any other suggestions wher i should go hunting..?

thanks for all ur help in advanced.

car is tiptronic '99 model with <50,000kms and cat back exhast and pod. (is my brothers car and he likes the pod and noise. personally i think the airbox is adequate) :D

thanks

mark.

Dam mate, there are so many topics on this,

FIRST, get a set of new copper plugs, i have an R33 and run BKR6EYA, the others don't work for shit in my car.

Gap these to 0.8mm

I have just finished with my car, and still having problems.

It is also most likely a weak coil, and if you do a search on " how to cure missfire"

sorry but that's my contribution. i just got back from the garage so time for bed.

recommend using the silicon and basting them in it?

i guess it couldnt hurt to try it..

also is it not recommended to mix and match just replace the coil pack that is rooted.?

i also have a feeling it will be No.4 thats worst off due to the carbon build up on the plug.. will check them this weekend and post up.

thanks

mark.

ok

pulled them out 2 nights ago upon inspection none had vissible signs of cracks or marks.. so i decided to bast them with silicon 401 as a DIY thread suggested. waited a night and put them in.

started it up warmed her a bit. and took her for a drive still had miss. but it was more upwards of 6000rpm.. had more lower down torque. but still wasnt fully driveable.

parked it in the driveway.. gave it a free rev held it at 4k to see if it would splutter. and it didnt. then took it for a drive again and it was better. came back. decided that i would try to cool the intake temps to limit chances of detonation.. so i threw some cold water on the SMIC and took her for a drive. revs fine all the way to 5500 and cough and then to redline..

after a while it ended up fixing itself..

now my guess is the ECU adjusted itself a littlebit as it went on. or due to lower air temps ther was less pinging and it helped out. thus cleaning out any hot spot carbon deposits from the head leaving it clean..

sound right..?

so all in all. cost me $13.45 from true value and a cup of water. better than $600 splitfires. hope it doesnt come back.. :D

Good to hear its fixed, the factory computer doesn't have any self learning, and i cant see how a cup of water will do anything. Its still possibly the cat converter, sometimes they lodge and dislodge themself, blocking and unblocking the exhaust. Has it had a fuel filter done?

brand new cat 1000-3000kms old..? exhast is 1000-3000kms old soo. i dnt knw.

i still think lowering the intake temps with the water kept it cool and allowed itself to clean the engine of the excess carbon hot spots..

either way. problem fixed.

+1 for SAU DIY THREADS :happy:

+1 for SAU DIY THREADS :(

Yup!! Got my new sparkies, and wondered where the hell they go in the RB25det, LOL! :(

Good ol DIY FAQ threads showed me the step by step procedure, and also the Silicone 101 trick, trying it all out tonight / tomorrow (dont have miss, but dont want a miss fire to develop when next tuned at 1bar)

OK - took the day off today to have a nice 4day weekend, why not, lol.

Changed the sparkies from 1.1s nonamebrand to ngk copper BCPR6E pregapped to .8mm - knee has blown up like a watermelon tho, lol, damn you kneecap-less kee :) Its hard being over 2m tall with sore back/knees bending and undoing stuff-knows what to get at the sparkies :(

Used the 401 industrial silicone sealer on the 2 longest sides of the coil packs (S2 rb25det) - query is should I put silicon over the two ends, one end is black plastic the other is see-thru plastic where you can see the electrical mumbojumbo stuff behind. Or should I then wind all the way around some good electrical tape (so its got the seams sealed with silicon and the ends wrapped in tape)?

:P

i put it on everywher that is black apart from the tube and the metal mounting points.. even though i saw no cracks prob should seal it anyway. just seal the sides that is to sit near the block as it will try to arc out thru the crack to the head. :)

ok..

i havent driven it but i was told it was still ther.

my brother started it warmed her up and she started to miss..

any idea?

shes still running the same copper plugs that the old owner put in.. 500>KMS ago.

ive sealed coils. and it worked fine for a day.. what is it now?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...