Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well its time to start cleaning out my garage :/

items are located in Melb and will only post for the small ones

Here we go

- heater box for r32 x 2 - -$50 each

- powersteering resivoirs x 2 - $30 each

- hicas pump and lines - $40

- white pearl 32 sedan boot (no damage, but no wing) - $50

- white 32 sedan boot tiny dint at back with type m spoiler - $80

- brake master cylinder and brake booster x 2 - $80 each

- white pearl r32 bonnet tiny dint at front just above where the headlight is - $80

- charcoal cannister - $20

- Maroon LHS r32 guard few dints (from half cut) $30

- rear k frame from r32, no diff - $80

- 32 sedan headlining (non sunroof - may also fit coupe not to sure) - $30

- rear seat in velour material bottom part from sedan and top part from a coupe $50

Added

Also got a stock r32 turbo, maybe a little shaft play not to sure, also comes with stock side mount some piping, manifold, dump pipe, and a few lines (may also have the stock front pipe to) $250 ono

Also have 6 rb20det injectors on stock fuel rail - Now free with turbo setup

- pair of front seats for r32 cloth material gc - $80

- passenger side r32 seat in velour gc - $40

- r32 automatic transmission, was shifting fine when took out to convert to manual - $50

Also have many interior bits and other parts from a 32 sedan. Prices are negotiable

Cheers Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152598-r32-gtst-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Added

- pair of front seats for r32 cloth material gc - $80

- passenger side r32 seat in velour gc - $40

- r32 automatic transmission, was shifting fine when took out to convert to manual - $50

Also have many interior bits and other parts from a 32 sedan. Prices are negotiable

Nick

J_R32 - No skirts or pods

MAG86 - suspension is struts and springs

Sexual_300 - Do u mean rear pillar trims? if so no trims but i might have some of the black slips if thats what ur after

ducki - no radiator but have thermo fan

PM if interested guys

ill have 2 go take a picture of my car stripped out haha.. umm these plastic things that are 4 the Rear pillars.. they were all cracked n when we removed the plastic n all the dodgy trim off it.. they all broke lol :laugh:

heres wat i mean man..

http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stripped5yq.jpg

sorry about pic quality.. did it with my camera phone just before.

Edited by Sexual_300

ill try take 1 tomorrow man.. umm they are like the trangle shaped bits that are on the rear pillars n are near the rear quarter glass.. n those clips that go in side/shell .. see in that pic that plastic thing thats all round n shit.. thats a clip, its just broken off n old lol.

Also got a stock r32 turbo, maybe a little shaft play not to sure, also comes with stock side mount some piping, manifold, dump pipe, and a few lines (may also have the stock front pipe to) $250 ono

Also have 6 rb20det injectors on stock fuel rail - $60

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...