Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppl,

have many people on here had re-map from dr.drift who can share how everything goes now, im debating between re-map and greddy emanage ultimate. re-maps heaps cheaper.

mods will be upgraded turbo, injectors,cams, fuel pump around 230rwkw. nothing over board on r32gtst rb20det.

is there any advantaged with the emange in the long run being easier to tune when its set up or there both the same just the inital set-up of them both

thanks all

simon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152690-dr-drift-re-maps/
Share on other sites

I can vouch for Sam's remaps and his tuning...he's remapped and tuned 2 of my cars to date and i haven't had any problems...for cars with ecus that can be remapped...its extremely good value for money...

And 89 SIL...sam sometimes puts a tuned by dr drift sticker on the ecu cover if he's done a remap but thats not always the case...

Edited by limpus
  • 1 month later...

i can vouch for his style of tuning.. i have a mercury motorsport ecu tune which is using the software they bought from dr drift

tune is great and retains stock knock sensors and cold start etc.

only problem is that if you want a re-tune then there's only one place you can go...

with things like a powerFC, you can pretty much go to anyone to get a tune

i had him remap my car a while ago, he wasnt to familiar back then with rb20's he was doing heaps of SR's

i would recommend him to anyone in melb but if your in sydney or bris not only do you pay for the chip but your paying for his time and the cost of the dyno he is renting..

he came twice to sydney to sort things out for me. so $300 for chip and 2 dyno sessions which cost about $300 each. another problem is if something was to happen you would have to wait a few months for him to come into state.

so i wasted about $900 all up on nothing and in the end i switched to an Fcon.

Sam (Dr Drift) tuned my R32 RB20 to 220rwkw without a hitch. Can easily tune up to whatever limits your bolt ons have. 230-240-250+ rwkw even over 300kw can be handled by the stock ECU. The only limit is your engine and mods (especially airflow meter).

I have had no problems with mine and will always go back to Sam if I need more power.

Would recommend to anyone.

PowerFC can be tuned anywhere by anybody, that is the real advantage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...