Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Presuming i have a complete rb26dett turbo's n all, can anyone give me a "rough" estimate of cost in putting it in a GTS-t? Not including supports such as brake upgrade and engine supports (cooler, fuel, clutch etc) just having the motor running in the car.

Anyone here personally done this?

My main reasons for wanting to do so is that i can get the car pretty much legally registered with around the same power i have now on stock turbos, plus i like the twin turbo power delivery in a RWD car, plus an rb26 is just cooler :P

cheers.

i realise this is not a cost effective exercise.

Edited by SLY33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152866-cost-of-gtr-engine-into-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well motor in/out generally people stick that around 1k, sometimes its 800/700 but 1k flat is an nice even number.

So i would say realistically $2k for the transplant, all the wiring up and cooler piping done, exhaust mated up.

2k would sound reasonable to me

There wouldnt be much in it if you sell of the RB25 (& loom etc) as it'll pay most the conversion cost i would imagine.

So outta pocket you might be a few hundred (plus RB26 purchase)

thats not bad..

are GTR front cuts plentiful?

thanks Nismoid

I couldnt tell you dude.

I paid near 4k (nearly 1.5yrs ago) for a complete RB26 with loom, included turbos/plenum etc etc.

So basically ready to rock and roll. Just needed to drop it in.

But then i rebuilt it, turbos etc etc. You know how it goes :)

So i reckon overall it would cost you maybe 5k at the most as i would imagine you could pickup a running RB26 with loom etc etc for less than what i paid, plus the re-sale of the RB25 (in stock form), if you have other bolton's to the RB25, sell them off separate and you stand to do the conversion even cheaper

why not attempt to do all the ins and outs by yourself and then just get a workshop to do the wiring?

x2

Its pretty easy to put an engine in......if you had a whole 1/2 cut it would be piss easy

also wiring isnt rocket science, you could get away with it for a 3 day weekend (if ur a noob at it) hire of an engine crane / stands or even just some tyres.

Day one remove RB25, take out rb26 and put in Rb26, start bolting shit up, ave a few beers

day 2 start wiring, possiably get running

day 3, finish wiring / tidy up, drive

I dare say it will all be plug and play as far as the looms go, IE plug for dash / fuel pump plugs / plugs in engine bay are same....But im more familiar with R31/32 looms, and R33 gtst, never played with r33 gtR

-Jez

You are forgeting that the GTR has a front diff wacked in the center of the sump. It needs to be removed and the sump modified to suit the RWD layout. 3 day job its not.

Wiring a 26 into the same era GTS-T is not overly hard. Most of its straight forward much like a CA-SR conversion on a silvia.

Piping and so forth is not a bolt up and forget affair either. GTR uses a forward facing plenum the GTS-T does not, Air con lines are different if your concerned with that. Several things will come into it that are easily overlooked.

I am very interested in this. I originally bought the 33 cause I didn't want the complexity of a GTR drivetrain, but have always had plans to put an insane engine in. I dont see the point in putting bling boltons in there, just saving up for a big rebuild and enjoying the car as nissan intended atm.

I understand that this is basically going to involve putting a GTR front onto a GTST back. But done correctly and along with a bare metal respray and full rebuild of suspension I reckon that this be a winner. (So long as money is spent where it is due and work is carried out properly :))

What do u guys reckon? Do we have a winner?

You are forgeting that the GTR has a front diff wacked in the center of the sump. It needs to be removed and the sump modified to suit the RWD layout. 3 day job its not.

Wiring a 26 into the same era GTS-T is not overly hard. Most of its straight forward much like a CA-SR conversion on a silvia.

Piping and so forth is not a bolt up and forget affair either. GTR uses a forward facing plenum the GTS-T does not, Air con lines are different if your concerned with that. Several things will come into it that are easily overlooked.

The front diff does not pose a problem for an expirienced fabricator.

I only had to trial fit my motor twice before it was perfect (front diff removed) and it didnt cost anything extreme to have done.

The plenum isnt an issue, most people have a FMIC these days.

And i know (from my HR/RB26 conversion) its just a case of some shaving of the headlight surround to get the piping to the front of the car/cooler intake

We've lined it all up, and spent a lot of time looking at it, and provided you had the sump already complete.

I reckon i would be a 3-day job pretty easily if you had everything you needed there and didnt forget stuff.

The modding of the sump is they only real place i can see where you might get stuck, as thats where i did.

Other than that, i agree, its not a very difficult conversion like the CA-->SR :)

Also worth thinking about is the condition of the RB26.

You want it checked very well first.

Also the turbos, personally i would change them (and i did) as i dont really want a turbo letting go.

And lets face it, there is a mild chance of it letting go and things getting even more costly very quick

Well since most front cuts would be written off track s**ts I'd say its a given that it would need a full rebuild. Just need a :sorcerer: to give me some cash to get started.

Serious though I am pretty keen on this.

Lol watch this space!

i cleaned out my PM box as it was really full and deleted his PMs. :) sorry

i knw his name is Mark J. H

as it is the same as me Mark J. H he lives in perth or adelaide or somewher he has a white R33 GTST..

thats all i can help with sorry. good bloke. if u find him he should help out.

Edited by markimak

Noice! This is definitely becoming a project. I will make a thread when i'm ready to start building but I want to do a whole lot of research first.

I want to try and track down Mark to to get a few ideas for starters :)

i would definitly rebuild it, i wouldnt bother throwing an old motor in and hoping it will be ok. Same goes for the turbos. Are N1 turbo's considered an OEM item as far as the defect police are concerned? In SA ive heard of people having to 'prove' that their turbos are standard by running the numbers and checking they are factory nissan items. I think they may even be picky about garret replacements! very gay. but im sure there is a turbo option they will approve that will still give me 300+rwkw.

would be a very cool thing to do. Bloody hell these cars... i havent even finished the GTR and im thinking about spending MORE money on the GTS-t, a project that was supposedly "finished". They are NEVER finished are they guys..! :)

GT-SS are bolt on replacement, same as the Garrett equivs

They are the same housings as the stock turbos, so there is no chance other than pulling them off and measuring the wheels to workout whats on there.

The ID plate isnt the same, but if your really worried just remove it.

So is there anyone on the forums who has actually performed this conversion? I have my mad old race mechanic from when I was racing motorcross/enduros on board and he is keen to get stuck into the GTS as long as I keep it looking stock so its a sleeper :) He has performed mods such as a 500HP Ford Windsor into a 240Z with Nismo running gear so im guessing he is a little keen to get stuck in!

The conversion is pretty straight forward as Nismoid said.

The only thing that prevents it being an unbolt/bolt affair is the sump and some piping which is really not that hard.

I havent done one into an R33 but I have done a Z33 and R32. Its not really that difficult.

If your fabricator mate is handy then it should not take to long to get in and running/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...