Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

quick one..how do i turn down the rev limiter on my power fc, or disable it somehow so if anyone tried to steal the car they'd have to figure it out? just caught some suspicious lookin kid on a bmx ride into my complex look at my car, lean up look through the window then ride off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153235-urgent-help/
Share on other sites

quick one..how do i turn down the rev limiter on my power fc, or disable it somehow so if anyone tried to steal the car they'd have to figure it out? just caught some suspicious lookin kid on a bmx ride into my complex look at my car, lean up look through the window then ride off

You have the hand controller I assume? If so Bunta knows how.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153235-urgent-help/#findComment-2850766
Share on other sites

ON the hand controler you need to go into setting

Then into the last menu bottom right and you will see idle value and rev limit set up around the 7000rpm area.

Highlight this figure and then hold down the 'down' arrow til its at like 1000rpm... :D

It will take you a minute to turn it down...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153235-urgent-help/#findComment-2850863
Share on other sites

HAHAHAHAHA

Never done that, what happens???

When you start the car it starts rev limiting straight away, really really slowly lol

Rev limiter and idle control fighting each other... would make it very hard to drive the car away :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153235-urgent-help/#findComment-2850885
Share on other sites

Wire in a kill switch like in racing...have it hidden under the dash and just turn it off and remove the key paddle and keep it with you...then they cant start the car regardless....so long as they dont find it and bridge it....that would suck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153235-urgent-help/#findComment-2850906
Share on other sites

I do this when I park in dodgy places! It is the goods, You get sick of it doing it regularly but like Col said it takes a good minute to take it from 7500 to 1000

Oh it is also good for when learners/noobs are driving your car. Set the limiter to 4500 and sleep easy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153235-urgent-help/#findComment-2850948
Share on other sites

what about just popping the bonnet and disconnecting the ignition module?

car can't start without any spark to the cylinders, and its easiest to plug back in without the need for tools etc.

I guess we are hoping that the Crim doesnt know how to use a Power FC...whereas he might now to plug the igniter back in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153235-urgent-help/#findComment-2850964
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...