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I think I may have an issue with the thermo fan on my R32 GTR (it's not working at ALL !!!)

I'm in sunny Brisbane - and now that we are getting some reasonable summer heat - I've noticed my PFC temp readings creeping up over 100 from time to time.

The car normally sits on 80 - but I've been stuck in traffic a couple of time over the past few weeks and noticed my water temps starting to creek up. (java script:emoticon(':D', 'smid_15')

:)

Yes - I have a N1 water pump - no sledging from SK pls.

When she hit 100 degrees today - I could not hear the fan come on - and the temp continued to climb (107) until I cleared the traffic and got some air flowing

1: how do I check that my themo fan is working (properly ?)

2: if I want to replace it - what should I get ?

3: I've herd you can get the PFC to turn the fan on earlier - how is this done - is there someone in Brisbane that can do this for me

4: the first person to mention blown head gasket (or similar) gets to pay for the replacement :ninja:

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did you take the engine fan off?

what controls the thermo fan?

the current fan is the std fan AFAIK

was of the understanding that the themostat controlled the clutch on the fan

have not RTFMed as yet tho

am I missing something ?

Edited by itbmils
Guys/Gals

I think I may have an issue with the thermo fan on my R32 GTR (it's not working at ALL !!!)

I'm in sunny Brisbane - and now that we are getting some reasonable summer heat - I've noticed my PFC temp readings creeping up over 100 from time to time.

The car normally sits on 80 - but I've been stuck in traffic a couple of time over the past few weeks and noticed my water temps starting to creek up. (java script:emoticon(':thumbsup:', 'smid_15')

:woot:

Yes - I have a N1 water pump - no sledging from SK pls.

When she hit 100 degrees today - I could not hear the fan come on - and the temp continued to climb (107) until I cleared the traffic and got some air flowing

1: how do I check that my themo fan is working (properly ?)

2: if I want to replace it - what should I get ?

3: I've herd you can get the PFC to turn the fan on earlier - how is this done - is there someone in Brisbane that can do this for me

4: the first person to mention blown head gasket (or similar) gets to pay for the replacement :P

Fan should be working mate,

What you do is short circuit it, it'll turn on. If after you've short circuit it and it still won't turn on then its quite obvious.

My advise to you is to pull your radiator out, send it to a shop to have the TOP TANK pull out, clean. You'll be supprise how much blockage you have because WATER TEMP should never goes up to 100.

While your radiator is out, get a new Thermal Switch from Nissan as well.

My car HEATED up like that once and the FAN didn't work, only work when i switch the A/C on so i assume its the PFC that has something to do with it. Still in the progress to find out why as if it was stock ECU, FAN would kicks in straight the way.

the current fan is the std fan AFAIK

The engine driven fan is controlled by the temperature of the air passing through the radiator. There's a bi-metallic strip on the front of the hub which controls internal passages and 'switches' the fan in or out. Of course engine speed also plays a role. If you still have the engine fan fitted it's possible the hub is stuffed and simply 'freewheeling', which would give bugger all engine cooling from the fan, and that would be worse in stop-start traffic (and that N1 pump wouldn't be helping either....). If you don't have the engine fan fitted then put it back on ASAP.

The thermostatic fan on the front of the radiator isn't meant to be used as the main cooling fan for the engine. It's controlled by a sensor at the bottom of the radiator, plus has some link to the ECU (from memory). Basically it's meant to be for assidtance to the engine fan in extreme situations.....eg hot days with aircon on.

why shouldnt it go up over 100, thats the whole reason its pressurised, so it doesnt boil.

in a gtir i have seen 110 water temp with no detremental effects

Eventually there would be. Generally, cooling systems are designed to operate in the region of 80 to 90C, with perhaps going to 95 in extreme circumstances. Certainly a properly designed cooling system in good condition should not see 100C and 110C is way too high. Pressurisation provides a safety margin by raising the boiling point, but keep in mind that the thermostat usually starts to open in the low 80's and will be fully open (ie full flow through the radiator) at around 90C, so the system is at max cooling capacity for any given engine speed. If the theromstat is fully open and engine temp continues to rise, there is probably some other cooling system problem (water pump on the way out or clogged radiator, etc.

When i seen 110, the factory guage had not moved at all, i was reading it off the power fc handset, it was 41 degrees, in traffic with ac on full.

I know idealy it shouldnt, but in most cars they do get quite hot. some Commodore thermo fans only turn on at like 98 degrees.

My skyline stays quite cool below 90 with ac on in hot days, but i also have an oil cooler that helps a little.

Edited by GTR1993
The engine driven fan is controlled by the temperature of the air passing through the radiator. There's a bi-metallic strip on the front of the hub which controls internal passages and 'switches' the fan in or out. Of course engine speed also plays a role. If you still have the engine fan fitted it's possible the hub is stuffed and simply 'freewheeling', which would give bugger all engine cooling from the fan, and that would be worse in stop-start traffic (and that N1 pump wouldn't be helping either....). If you don't have the engine fan fitted then put it back on ASAP.

The thermostatic fan on the front of the radiator isn't meant to be used as the main cooling fan for the engine. It's controlled by a sensor at the bottom of the radiator, plus has some link to the ECU (from memory). Basically it's meant to be for assidtance to the engine fan in extreme situations.....eg hot days with aircon on.

Hang on - sorry pps

I think I may be talking about the engine fan. The large clutch fan attached to the radiator inside the engine bay - not the secondary fan on the outside of the radiator - which I probably also need to check.

how can I check if this guy is working ?

Edited by itbmils
When i seen 110, the factory guage had not moved at all, i was reading it off the power fc handset, it was 41 degrees, in traffic with ac on full.

I know idealy it shouldnt, but in most cars they do get quite hot. some Commodore thermo fans only turn on at like 98 degrees.

My skyline stays quite cool below 90 with ac on in hot days, but i also have an oil cooler that helps a little.

yep - mine used to sit bang on 80 all the time (rain/mail/shin) - but in the past few weeks - I think the fan has gone to a better place :P

I did have some work done on the air con a little while ago - maybe I should check that everything has been connected up properly

I recently suffered the same issue with a freinds turbo VL. We changed 4 second hand clutch fans, remotely triggered the air con fan with an extra power wire (so the air con can still run the fan at it's will) and the old RB still would not stop cooking.

Pulled the radiator apart and it was clugged up quite bad. The cleaner radiator really helped. but on the stinking hot days it was still getting to hot. Ended up buying a brand new clutch for the fan and the whole problem is now gone. He also now has the bonus of turning on the extra fan at his will and it aids in cooling the air-con and intercooler as well!

Any other thoughts.. :yes:

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