Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

www.uras.com.au

Email Athid: [email protected] PM: 180athid He'll sort u out!

If u need a good painter, u cant go past Vu @ DT panels; email: [email protected] PM: evilsub

wf_r349_f.jpgwf_r348_f.jpg

those things are ugly and URAS only do 4 doors which i dont have

Is this pretty much asking the same thing?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=149367

oh no nismoid ull have to wait and see what that is :(

Edited by anDru

I've decided to go with GTR guards, front and rear.. Rear will need a cutting,welding job etc.. but overall, pumped out GTR guards look the best! Can get those wheels i wanted with a +45 offset.

Just need a wreaking GTR with a straight rear panel now!

custom stuff will aslo cost alot of the $$$$

lol give me a couple of weeks mate ill have my new car pics up and exactly how much its cost me to get it up to that stage......then ull see wat alot costs lol

my cars in my shop Daniel its almost ready just a few lil touch ups n get my speedo working somehow?? n yer

iv had custom work b4 it cost lost off money better off buying premade kits. if it dont cost u much then its shit lol unless u got a mate

  • 2 weeks later...

I've just converted my front R33 S1 to GTR. Trust me it costs more and requires a lot more effort than you realise. This is what I needed that was different:

- GTR Bonnet (taller, longer).

- GTR Bonnet Hinges.

- GTR Bonnet Latch.

- GTR Headlights (Look the same as S1 R33, except have additional spacers).

- GTR Front Guards.

- GTR Front Guard Inner Liners.

- GTR Front Guard Raisers (Piece of metal that sits between guards and skirts - $300 pair from Nissan, goodluck getting from wrecker).

- GTR Indicators.

- GTR Front Bar (Even FGlass is expensive as not many around for GTR)

Now do the maths.

It cost me $2500 just for parts, and that was cheating, having modified the hinges/latch and using fibreglass front bar and bonnet. Plus another $2200 labour for fitting and painting, and it becomes a very expensive exercise. I'll post photos when I get a change though, looks insane! Better than your average R33. Now time for the rear =(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Nismo, any chance in the world you still have these seats?
    • I'd say closer to OG GTX3582R, just smaller trim - so 59mm inducer/82mm exducer as opposed to 62/82 for the first gen GTX3582R. Yeah EFRs were boss, the EFR8474 is still an absolute beast and it perplexes me that people still go to things like Turbosmart/Garrett etc when the results people are getting with those are pretty unremarkable compared to what you could get with a turbo available well before those options came out.  DriftSquid (I think) "upgraded" from an EFR9174 to a Turbosmart turbo and promised a comparison video - and kinda shuffled awkwardly and did a bit of diversion from the fact that they didn't get any improvement going to the currently massively hyped brand of turbo from a turbo that was a bit of a frankenstein that had been well superceded in it's own range before the Turbosmart unit he put on there even came out. I suspect the EFR would outperform most Xonas for what a lot of less-insane RB owners would go for, in the 400-600kw range but the Xonas are looking hard to beat up to maybe in the mid 700kw range at this stage- basically where EFRs don't really reach, and before the Precision turbos take over.  What the Xonas do well in the "EFR range" is be easier to package etc, and work very well if a divided housing doesn't suit your application.  
    • Are you sure the gasket is blown? What are the issues? Thermocure is the only flush I've seen do anything with rust, very impressed with that, Prestone, rust will be by the pool having a cigarette.  
    • And since the flush you have a blown head gasket? Have you lifted the head off yet?
    • The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.
×
×
  • Create New...