Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

www.uras.com.au

Email Athid: [email protected] PM: 180athid He'll sort u out!

If u need a good painter, u cant go past Vu @ DT panels; email: [email protected] PM: evilsub

wf_r349_f.jpgwf_r348_f.jpg

those things are ugly and URAS only do 4 doors which i dont have

Is this pretty much asking the same thing?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=149367

oh no nismoid ull have to wait and see what that is :(

Edited by anDru

I've decided to go with GTR guards, front and rear.. Rear will need a cutting,welding job etc.. but overall, pumped out GTR guards look the best! Can get those wheels i wanted with a +45 offset.

Just need a wreaking GTR with a straight rear panel now!

custom stuff will aslo cost alot of the $$$$

lol give me a couple of weeks mate ill have my new car pics up and exactly how much its cost me to get it up to that stage......then ull see wat alot costs lol

my cars in my shop Daniel its almost ready just a few lil touch ups n get my speedo working somehow?? n yer

iv had custom work b4 it cost lost off money better off buying premade kits. if it dont cost u much then its shit lol unless u got a mate

  • 2 weeks later...

I've just converted my front R33 S1 to GTR. Trust me it costs more and requires a lot more effort than you realise. This is what I needed that was different:

- GTR Bonnet (taller, longer).

- GTR Bonnet Hinges.

- GTR Bonnet Latch.

- GTR Headlights (Look the same as S1 R33, except have additional spacers).

- GTR Front Guards.

- GTR Front Guard Inner Liners.

- GTR Front Guard Raisers (Piece of metal that sits between guards and skirts - $300 pair from Nissan, goodluck getting from wrecker).

- GTR Indicators.

- GTR Front Bar (Even FGlass is expensive as not many around for GTR)

Now do the maths.

It cost me $2500 just for parts, and that was cheating, having modified the hinges/latch and using fibreglass front bar and bonnet. Plus another $2200 labour for fitting and painting, and it becomes a very expensive exercise. I'll post photos when I get a change though, looks insane! Better than your average R33. Now time for the rear =(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...