Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Test drove a Mazda3 MPS yesterday. The sales rep cam along so I thought I wouldn't get the chance to give the car a real test.

Per previous tests the sales person drove it out of the show room and up the road. Next minute I know he has absolutely floored it and man it goes.

We hit 110 kmh in no time. I was worried as we approached a crest at around 90 and still accelerating. Such thrust from low in the rev range. Can hardly believe it is torque limted in first and second. Turbo engines have come along way with direct injection etc. It's amazing how easy it is to get from 60 km/h. I thought I was doing around 40 when it was showing 60.

I think on boost my car would go close to keeping up however would be belted below 4000 rpm.

My driving by comparison was very conservative. Was difficult to get off the line smoothly with a very quick take up. Didn't get to experience the dynamics give that we were in a built up area with very few non 90 degree bends.

From what I have seen I am very impressed and would probably consider a second hand one in a couple of years (as a second car).

Cheers

P.S. Save the "You are comparing two cars that are 12 years apart" responses. I realise this, I'm just making observations.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153716-test-drove-a-mazda3-mps/
Share on other sites

It performed very well in Motor magazine's bang for buck competition, beating many cars worth more than double it's price in straight line acceleration and lap times at Oran Park.

All the journo's loved it - bang for buck. You get alot for little outlay.

It's not for me as its FWD - the work of satan. But each to their own.

Be interesting once the aftermarket tuners get hold of them and tickle some more power out of it.

Edited by nismoman
its a lot of power to put to the front wheels , computer limiting or not

and modding it will just make it worse

hopefully a next speced up 4wd varient perhaps..... ?

I asked about a 4wd variant. They guy said probably not because they are concentrating on beating golf gti etc. It could be a ploy for me to buy the current version. Then again, he would probably know as soon as we would.

In relation to putting the power through the front wheels, it didn't seem to limit take off and that was swift. Personally rwd is better though they did a good job with the mps.

the vw golf has gone awd

http://www.webwombat.com.au/motoring/news_...vw-golf-r32.htm

he car's power is transmitted to all four wheels by way of Volkswagen's 4MOTION all-wheel drive system, which negates traction problems in the wet and the company insists that there is no hint of torque steer that can often hamper front-wheel drive hot hatches. Volkswagen says that, technically speaking, the most important 4MOTION element is the latest generation of the wet (oil bath) plate clutch, because compared with a purely mechanical Torsen differential, the Haldex coupling has the decisive advantage that it can be controlled electronically. Some drivers prefer the purely mechanical Torsen setup seen in vehicles like the Audi S4, the Editor being one of them, while others are keen on electronically controlled systems like the one employed on the newGolf R32.

the vw golf has gone awd

http://www.webwombat.com.au/motoring/news_...vw-golf-r32.htm

he car's power is transmitted to all four wheels by way of Volkswagen's 4MOTION all-wheel drive system, which negates traction problems in the wet and the company insists that there is no hint of torque steer that can often hamper front-wheel drive hot hatches. Volkswagen says that, technically speaking, the most important 4MOTION element is the latest generation of the wet (oil bath) plate clutch, because compared with a purely mechanical Torsen differential, the Haldex coupling has the decisive advantage that it can be controlled electronically. Some drivers prefer the purely mechanical Torsen setup seen in vehicles like the Audi S4, the Editor being one of them, while others are keen on electronically controlled systems like the one employed on the newGolf R32.

volkswagon has made a 4wd version for quite some time, its nothing new. they have such an aggressive look tho :( FYI it has the audi tt engine in it

Edited by yoshimitsu9
Some drivers prefer the purely mechanical Torsen setup seen in vehicles like the Audi S4, the Editor being one of them, while others are keen on electronically controlled systems like the one employed on the newGolf R32.

Could it be because the editor isn't a pussy?

The 4MOTION system runs at 90% front torque split most of the time, and only goes to a 50:50 split when reacting to electronic sensors?

So the polar opposite of a GT-R. Instead of behaving like a RWD car until it needs AWD grip anb balance, it behaves like a FWD car until that point. Where do I sign up....?

A mate has a mps3 - awesome car!

We were pretty much neck and neck on a launch, rolling run he drilled me (ive only got a cat back and pod - std boost)

They run 15psi from factory - if you want more boost you will need a bigger turbo

The MPS6 i am looking into as my next car - we have a sp23 at home and while its not the fastest car around its a very nice, smooth and comfortable drive.

From what i have read on the mps6, they like to oversteer and stock they put out around 150kw atw - not too shabby!

little front wheel drive cars can be fun. the missus has a n15 SSS pulsar (used to be mine) with 112hp (84kw) at the wheels. all it has is the stock natro sr20 with a k&n panel filter, extractors and 2" cat back. it torque steers like all buggery due to the uneven drive shafts, but goes well. its fun to have drags from the lights with v6 commodores and beat them (only just though). it handles really well (other than the torque steer, which just keeps you on your toes). i keep telling her we should turbo it but she won't let me. the power of a silvia in a car that weighs about 10% less would be good fun.

i'd love a mazda3 mps, or a ford xr5 (which i reakon looks super horn in red). sure they are fwd, but they'd still be great fun to drive. remember that the evo's are a fwd biased 4wd. fwd cars just take more skill to drive fast.

little front wheel drive cars can be fun. the missus has a n15 SSS pulsar (used to be mine) with 112hp (84kw) at the wheels. all it has is the stock natro sr20 with a k&n panel filter, extractors and 2" cat back. it torque steers like all buggery due to the uneven drive shafts, but goes well. its fun to have drags from the lights with v6 commodores and beat them (only just though). it handles really well (other than the torque steer, which just keeps you on your toes). i keep telling her we should turbo it but she won't let me. the power of a silvia in a car that weighs about 10% less would be good fun.

Dumhed's S13 (with a worked NA SR20DE) makes 120rwkW, which is as much power as a stock Australian delivered S15.

Forget the turbo. Just cam it and get management (and a LSD maybe). :stupid:

no fwd bias in the evos - 50/50 split

The MR’s AWD system is essentially an adaptation of a front-driver with a center differential that mechanically splits torque 50/50 front/rear and a hydraulically actuated limited-slip device that can progressively lock the front and rear axles together. Like the Subaru, how much lockup is determined by steering angle, throttle position, wheel speed, and front-to-back or side-to-side g-loads. Each of the Mitsu’s three selectable modes (Tarmac, Gravel, or Snow) has widely different priorities and algorithms that even effect the electronic throttle application. We found the Tarmac mode best suited to Willow’s track, although a less grippy surface might’ve made the Gravel mode a better choice.

Like the Subaru, how much lockup is determined by steering angle, throttle position, wheel speed, and front-to-back or side-to-side g-loads

the early wrx's are very good on a skid pan as you can hold them sideways. the early evo's and galants are a fwd biased. i have driven a wrx and a galant on the skidpan and the wrx will drift really well, but the galant will slide then the front will pull you back straight. no fun at all.

i dont know about early evos

but everything from the vi up with the active center differential and active yaw control systems has the setup listed above , 50/50 center diff with active torque proporsioning

are we talking actual torque splitting or handling feel when were talking bias ?

cause any front engined , front heavy awd car with a 50/50 split will have a handling bias towards the front

early wrx are renowned for their fwd like understeer

Edited by arkon

I think they would be a great car in stock form.

I think personally I would leave it that way, enjoy what the factory delivered and not have to worry about drivability and reliability.

I really want to drive one, only because I imagine they would be a more refined version of my previous car, a modded telstar tx5 turbo, which just so happened to have a load of torque through the front wheels, an LSD which didnt help the torque steer much and very similar peformance times to the mazda.

Seems both have it all low down too, and not much up top.

early wrx are renowned for their fwd like understeer

Early WRX's also didn't run LSDs, and the rear suspension was too soft so it would lift the nose under power. You can get anti-lift kits to cure the latter, and most of them run mechanical LSDs.

Its not just the torque split, although I'd agree that a 50:50 torque split with a front engined car is going to inherently understeer without suspension setup trickery.

according to topgear

the vuakhall astra VXR (holden astra VXR) is shittte as it torque steers like a bitch and, frankly has tooo much power

the focus ST (Focus XR5 Turbo) is one of the hottest hatches around and is just perfect apparently (with a bigger turb, intercooler, up boost and some other small tricky dicky stuff 250kw is acheivable - dont forget, 5cyls, and volvo engines are strong)

the mazda3 mps comes with 190kw and 380nm of torque - thats the same as the base Ford 4L 6cyl!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...