Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb25det Motor Fs

boostnewy
 Share

Recommended Posts

boostnewy Apprentice

boostnewy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Im gana pull the RB25DET out of my R33 no 1 cylinder is down to 90psi and i have bought a new motor at the right price.

U can see the motor running in the next week or 2 if u are interested in buying it.

The motor has done 92,000km may only have a blown head gasket.

Im after $1000

pm me for more info

Edited by boostnewy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154023-r33-rb25det-motor-fs/
Share on other sites
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Please read the rules - whats the location of this engine ?

what comes with the engine ? is manifolds and turbo provided with injectors and coils etc etc

Thanks

Im gana pull the RB25DET out of my R33 no 1 cylinder is down to 90psi and i have bought a new motor at the right price.

U can see the motor running in the next week or 2 if u are interested in buying it.

The motor has done 92,000km may only have a blown head gasket.

Im after $1000

pm me for more info

boostnewy Apprentice

boostnewy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Please read the rules - whats the location of this engine ?

what comes with the engine ? is manifolds and turbo provided with injectors and coils etc etc

Thanks

sorry my bad

Its a long motor all the manifolds are being used on the new motor may come with the coils have to see whats on the motor when it gets here in the morning will let u know but at the moment its a bare long motor

The car was put upto 16 psi and now it gone down to 90psi so it may be the headgasket but i have a worked motor to put in that i got at the right price so im not gana bother with it.

i know they sell for more but im after a quick sale there isnt any oil in the water and the oil is cream so yeah hard to say. But it is still running in the car on low boost runs sweet still so it can be seen running in the car in newy if sombody is keen cheers

boostnewy Apprentice

boostnewy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
dont talk shit, it wouldn't be the head gasket if only one cylinder has low comp. its not a bigg daddy truck where each cylinder has its own head gasket haha

1 wat to find out what it is pull the head off could be a burnt valve leaking valve could be anything but all i know is its still running fine in the car

  • 2 weeks later...
Z24O Rising Star

Z24O

Posted
Posted
dont talk shit, it wouldn't be the head gasket if only one cylinder has low comp. its not a bigg daddy truck where each cylinder has its own head gasket haha

of course it's possible,each cylinder has a round ring that seals the two mated surfaces(head to block),if you break the integrity of the ring it allows leakage of compression on that cylinder....the other sealed cylinders are unnaffected.(this i know from experience by the way)

it is possible that the piston ring may be cracked,you can exclude this by squirting some oil in the spark plug hole and immediately doing a compression test,if the compression goes up the chances are it's a piston/ring problem

it is possible that the compression is leaking into the water jacket via the headgasket,would get worse with more boost,may show up by overheating,pressurising the cooling system,rough idle on start up first thing in the morning(water leaks into the cylinder overnight and fouls the plug)

if it's a small leak it is unlikely to account for a big drop in compression,best way is to test it with an S-TEK tester that is very sensitive to carbon monoxide in the coolant(even if there are no symptoms),costs about $80 from auto parts store eg coventrys

if its a burnt valve you may hear it popping from the exhaust on heavy decelleration

obviously head off is the best diagnostic route,but the above would take less than 1/2 hour to perform and give some indication of the problem

good luck with the sale

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...