Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How well does Dynamat Dynaxorb work?
you answered your own question :(

READ THE QUESTION BEFORE ANSWERING....

To answer .... realy well. my stezza vibrated like all buggery in the doors but put a couple of these babies behind the speakers and all gone, :rofl: all smiles

See link here: http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_dynaxorb.html

dynaxorb_with_without.gif

Recommended.

minger: I'd usually say that a reduction in door vibration would be more closely attributed to the use of sound deadening in your doors, whilst products like dynaxorb would have more of a impact on the midbass response.

To answer .... realy well. my stezza vibrated like all buggery in the doors but put a couple of these babies behind the speakers and all gone, :no: all smiles

Is that all you did, slip in the DynaXorb? Or did you also sound-deaden your doors at the same time with dynamat, which would also help get rid of the vibration?

See link here: http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_dynaxorb.html

dynaxorb_with_without.gif

Recommended.

minger: I'd usually say that a reduction in door vibration would be more closely attributed to the use of sound deadening in your doors, whilst products like dynaxorb would have more of a impact on the midbass response.

Thanks for the link, so they come with a tube of cyanoacrylate adhesive to stick them to the door/dynamat? And looks like their main role is to remove back-wave interference, resulting in better quality sound. For $40 they are worth a shot I guess, i've bought some off Ebay but they are taking forever to get here, and was contemplating not worrying about them.

READ THE QUESTION BEFORE ANSWERING....

To answer .... realy well. my stezza vibrated like all buggery in the doors but put a couple of these babies behind the speakers and all gone, :laugh: all smiles

so i was a little fast so why you shouting, i can hear you from here? :P

Well whats the average price for Dynaxorb and Dynamat Extreme Bulk from a retailer?

you tell me..

I know what I list it for and apart from internet people I sell it at that price.

hey man i have Dynamat Xtreme Bulk Pak in my car and its very good and i noticed that i got more BASS out of the speakers and that it makes a real big difference but the sheets are very heavy. That makes the car perform less and if your interested i have a friend working at a car audio store and i can get it for you for a good price.

http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_..._bulk_paks.html

FOR MORE INFO GO THERE ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :P

Well from the dynamat.com website,

DynaXorb Speaker Kit $35US = $45AUD

Dynamat Extreme Bulk $270US = $350AUD.

But your website price on the bulk is cheaper compared with US retail, I think these US prices are inflated a bit.

hey man i have Dynamat Xtreme Bulk Pak in my car and its very good and i noticed that i got more BASS out of the speakers and that it makes a real big difference but the sheets are very heavy. That makes the car perform less and if your interested i have a friend working at a car audio store and i can get it for you for a good price.

http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_..._bulk_paks.html

FOR MORE INFO GO THERE ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :P

Thanks mate, i've got my bulk pack, looks like good stuff! But what price can you get it for, out of curiosity?

I think it only weighs 15-20kg, so considering im a small bloke myself (55kgs), i dont think my car will notice any loss of performance... 15kg / 1300kg is about a 1% weight increase, not much,

Dont flame me .. I just asked a audio expert .. An installer not a seller

Dynamatt doesnt do much .. It reduces slight vibration but cheaper options also work well .. In his opinion he said its not worth it .. Oh this was in the boot .. in the doors hes all for it .. but still says its better just to do the surrounds to reduce weight ..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...