Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont flame me .. I just asked a audio expert .. An installer not a seller

Dynamatt doesnt do much .. It reduces slight vibration but cheaper options also work well .. In his opinion he said its not worth it .. Oh this was in the boot .. in the doors hes all for it .. but still says its better just to do the surrounds to reduce weight ..

Out of interest, what were the cheaper options he mentioned?

well one was expanding foam (rookie told me that one and no way I would do it ..)

He explained padding foam would work if its hard packed and making sure everything is tight... He told me cheaper version will do just as good but we had the system running (boot closed) I grabbed the spoiler to shut the thing up and he said thats what dynamat will do.. It was a noticable difference but not $100-200 worth of it .. even tho the system it worth 50 times that much he still didnt feel you would hear the effects in the cabin ..

Edited by DECIM8

Dynamat is not made to reduce rattles, unless you use the one thats specifically designed to reduce rattles.

I would tell your installer mate to go back to school and have a few more lessons in dynamat and reduction of road noise.

Also EXPANDER FOAM do you even begin to understand the catastrophis results EXPANDER FOAM will have on your panels when it starts expanding? Its been known to warp the cars panels.

George

Edited by Adelaideprosound

Im just preachin his word... Obviously he'd know something.. hes been in the business for 10 yrs so I dont know..

Everyones got a opinion so i guess thats his .. not that I dont believe u either but id like to hear before I buy..

One more thing I doubt hes studied it hes just used it and felt it was worth less..

Well i use it and have demonstrated the differences time and time again. So i dont mean to sound arrogant but perhaps he was using it to STOP RATTLES not to REDUCE ROAD NOISE.

Dynamat is proven all over the world as being worth its weight in gold, and is being used by every single high end installation expert and SQ nut.

Lets agree to disagree, but when applied correctly and utilised properly Dynamat does a LOT.

How much would it cost to do a DECENT sound deadening job (diy of course)?

I knwo that everyone's decent has a different meaning, but lets just say such that the car becomes significantly quieter so that you can actually hear it. Not like a 1db drop that can only be detected using a db metre.

Would that just be doing both doors?

possibly parts of the boot/rear quarters?

underneath the rear seat?

rear seat sides?

floor?

roof?

behind dash?

$300ish for dynamat bulk pack, dynaxorb and a bottle of prepsol.

the rest is elbow grease.

a bulk pack should do both doors and leave you enough to get stuck into the boot and some under the rear seats if you haven't had enough fun yet.

alternatively, phone a friend and you could probably do the doors on two cars (with more dynaxorb for the other car) and see how it sounds.

if you want to go further at a later date then save up and buy another pack of dynamat and a few beers.

$300ish for dynamat bulk pack, dynaxorb and a bottle of prepsol.

the rest is elbow grease.

a bulk pack should do both doors and leave you enough to get stuck into the boot and some under the rear seats if you haven't had enough fun yet.

alternatively, phone a friend and you could probably do the doors on two cars (with more dynaxorb for the other car) and see how it sounds.

if you want to go further at a later date then save up and buy another pack of dynamat and a few beers.

best way :laugh:

or work it on this: 88/hr average 3-4 hours to do a car and a box of dmat.

Well i use it and have demonstrated the differences time and time again. So i dont mean to sound arrogant but perhaps he was using it to STOP RATTLES not to REDUCE ROAD NOISE.

Dynamat is proven all over the world as being worth its weight in gold, and is being used by every single high end installation expert and SQ nut.

Lets agree to disagree, but when applied correctly and utilised properly Dynamat does a LOT.

Just to respond I dont disagree with u .. from the info i got it was exactly as you say worth its weight in gold. But hey I might give that gear a go neways with a 40kg enclosure in the boot aint like 10kg is gonna hurt my ride any more ..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Tried to make 1/8npt threads into compressor house of the turbo for my EBC. Threads got fu#ked and ended up with and elongated hole, so I do have good amount and nice threads 90% of the hole but 10% I only had 1-2threads there and rest of it is flush on that side of the hole.. So my idea is to do M12 x 1.25 to AN4 with braided lines instead of 1/8npt to 4mm vacuum silicone hose.  and hopefully get a better thread. M12 is quite big and AN4 is a little bit bigger than 4mm (4.9mm inner diameter braided PTFE hose). but this should work. Thoughts? Otherwise I will weld and adapter onto the turbo.   
    • Looks great, I hope everything is working well after all that time!
    • Finally back on the ground and once around the block for the first time in 2+ years
    • Ok a solution was found. I had left the factory oil temp sensor in and it was hooked up. My car never had the triple gauges.  Apparently when you delete the factory pressure and leave the temp sensor connected it triggers the oil light on the dashboard. Disconnected the temp sender, no more light.  I still haven't gotten around to look at the diagrams to figure out how/why they are tied together.
×
×
  • Create New...