Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've go ta 2wd dyno day comming up (in the 'gong) the 4/2/07 for anyone interested check the cruise thred.

Anyhoo, problem is. Can I turn the R33 GTR into a 2wd by pulling a fuse the same way you can on a 32? :(

Thanks....

32 only.unless you want to stuff ya transfer case.. i think by memory you will have to take out drive shaftso it dont wear..

correct if im wrong

Yep. Along those lines. The R33 and 34 GTRs run a preload on the transfercase clutch pack so it'll do some bad stuff to clutches.

Pull drive shaft to front diff if you want 2WD.

K- thanks.

Thought so.

I have a HKS pro torque splitter (in cabin), but doesn’t always switch over to full 2WD.

Does the HKS torque splitter remove the chance of clutch damage? I just got a new twin plate clutch last week!

it's not clutch damage that is a problem. it's transfer case damage. it's simple for 33 and 34 GTR disconnect the front prop shaft (sends drive from the transfer to the front diff). otherwise your front wheels will not be moving, but the transfer case will be trying to send a small amount of drive to them, this will wear out the clutch packs in the transfer case (not your clutch in the gearbox).

OIC - but will my HKS torque splitter avoid this damage in the trasnfer case?
32 only.unless you want to stuff ya transfer case.. i think by memory you will have to take out drive shaftso it dont wear..
I might be wrong, but with my mates r33gtr we just popped in no gear then turned it off slowly and it went in 2wd

shouldnt do, that trick works on r32's only >_<

r33/r34's cant be fully switched to rwd only unless you undo the prop shafts like its been said. The hks toque splitter will only change with percentage of power sent from the motor to front and rear wheels, there will always be a small amount of power going to the front wheels even with the torque splitter fully adjusted to rwd. Just the way it is unfortunately...

first post btw woooh woooh woooooooooooooooooh

Edited by R34GTFOUR
shouldnt do, that trick works on r32's only :)

r33/r34's cant be fully switched to rwd only unless you undo the prop shafts like its been said. The hks toque splitter will only change with percentage of power sent from the motor to front and rear wheels, there will always be a small amount of power going to the front wheels even with the torque splitter fully adjusted to rwd. Just the way it is unfortunately...

first post btw woooh woooh woooooooooooooooooh

first post & spot on the money...ended up proping the front end of the GTR up (edit: cause it was too much hassle to pull the prop shaft) & running it with the torque splitter sending everything to the rear. But as you said the front wheels still turned & it lost power at the rears due to the fronts free wheeling...

Still screamed like a banshee thou... :P

thanks to D_I_F for the youtube clip...

Edited by double overhead sun visors
  • 3 weeks later...

You CAN make an R33 GTR real wheel drive only, WITHOUT removing the prop shaft. I have done this many times for dyno runs.

Under the drivers side dash, there is a small brown plug with a yellow wire.

Disconnect this with the car turned off.

Then when you start the car, pump the brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds and you will see the light flash on the dash. Then drive the car forward for a little bit to complete the depreasurisation.

This de-preasurises the centre diff housing, but also disables the A-LSD diff on V-Specs, but this is no problem on a dyno.

Once the key is tuned off, this resets the centre diff to re preasurise

This information came from the towing recomendations section from the skyline service manual.

Hope this helps!

  • 1 month later...

i'm not quite sure what you mean by drift ready. yes it's 2WD but I'd wouldn't call it drift ready. 32 GTR doesn't make a good drifter. lots of reasons why.

btw, dynoing your 33 GTR with the front of the car resting on a jack would have to be one of the sillier things I've ever seen someone do.

  • 3 weeks later...
Is a 32gtr drift ready just by unplugging the 4wd fuse n disabling 4wd?
haha this deserves a flaming.. im guessing your under 21...?
i'm not quite sure what you mean by drift ready. yes it's 2WD but I'd wouldn't call it drift ready. 32 GTR doesn't make a good drifter. lots of reasons why.

btw, dynoing your 33 GTR with the front of the car resting on a jack would have to be one of the sillier things I've ever seen someone do.

got a good clip of a BNR32 drifting.. but yeah.. lots of issues.. weight being one.. and early GTR have oil issues.. RBs dont like being reved high for long..

LOL at guy resting a car n a jack.. while dynoing...

i wanna see pics lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...